Into the heartland

Sorn Fine Southern draws on southern Thailand’s abundance of unique ingredients and traditions to create an exceptional dining experience. A serene sanctuary amid the bustle of Bangkok, Sorn Fine Southern is set in a magnificently restored traditional-style house, surrounded by the high rises of the city centre.

It is here where chef Jongsiri Supaksorn, fondly known as Chef Ice, has created an ode to his origins in southern Thailand, garnering a slew of awards and accolades in the process, including two Michelin stars and places on both The World’s 50 Best and Asia’s 50 Best restaurant awards lists.

As you walk through the doors, the high-octane energy of the city is replaced by the calm and warmth of the interior, delivered through organic textures, natural wood, and the artistry of Thai craftsmanship. It’s a beautiful blend of modern and heritage. The menu is a remarkable celebration of southern Thailand and all it offers.

The chef, who spent two years exploring what was once the ancient kingdom of Tambralinga, has revived age-old techniques with the use of traditional tools such as clay pots and charcoal stoves, along with age-old recipes. These include his famed chilli pastes, which are made in-house and act as a base for many of the dishes.

All of this effort ensures that each dish is as authentic as it is exquisite, both respecting tradition and working to elevate it to new heights. It is very much a story of the region’s people, its produce, and its rich, deeply flavourful culinary history. The menu fittingly begins with “Let’s Eat Rice”, a phrase used to invite family and friends to gather and enjoy a meal. Inspired by a spoonful of rice and all the sides, the first bite comes in crispy sago cracker, topped with jasmine rice cooked on the aforementioned charcoal stove and accompanied by a stir-fried Tapi River prawn — it’s a powerful mouthful designed to be consumed in one go and whets the appetite for the gastronomic journey that follows.

Each course is a chapter in the bigger story — for instance, the raw-fish course pays homage to the fishermen who supply the restaurant. This includes an incredibly tender slice of seven-colour lobster served with regional fruit and herb sauces, along with spotted Babylon snail with fermented soybean, sweet chilli, and a touch of lemon (the acidity works wonders with the umami-rich morsel) and crab claw pickled with soy sauce, rum, ginger, lemongrass, and bergamot, delivering layers upon layers of flavour.

Then there’s “The Sea Holds The Forest”, a signature crispy-rice salad that features an array of flavours found in Thai forests, along with turmeric-steamed jasmine rice (sun-dried for three days), seasoned with lime juice and a fermented anchovy sauce called budu. It’s a showcase of the region’s bounty, with flavour, texture, taste, sight, and smell engaged, as it’s presented and chopped tableside. This is one of those rare dishes that, while elaborate in presentation, still delivers on the palate.

And this is just the beginning, as it all leads to a show-stopping Thai feast, the table practically groaning under the impressive “The Southern Thai Classic”, which includes catfish with southern curry paste and stink beans, omelette of shallot and tiger prawn, and blue-spotted grouper with plum sauce. It’s punchy, bold, and more than a tad spicy — but it’ll have you coming back for seconds (and thirds) for sure. Bringing the meal to a close is a beautifully delicate dessert that showcases the longan — a tropical fruit of the soapberry family — which arrives as both a sorbet and a jelly on a sago base and textures of coconut, along with a petit-four service of traditional Thai sweet treats.

At Sorn, Chef Ice ensures that, through the complexities of his cooking, each dish shows a brilliant balance of spice, sweetness, and acidity, all bolstered by the superb use of texture. It’s beautiful, heartfelt and, ultimately, immensely personal cooking, which is a true privilege to experience.