A signature of consistency

Oscar Wilde may have been unconvinced of its merits, dismissing it as “the last refuge of the unimaginative”, but consistency I suspect, Desmond and Bilala Mabuza (the founders and proprietors of Signature Restaurant Morningside) will tell you — is a base ingredient for long-term success in hospitality.

While they have explored other ventures — Bilala Mabuza also runs the successful interiors business Cocoon Lifestyle (read more about her here) — and recently opened another Signature branch at Oceans Mall Umhlanga, the Mabuzas’ Morningside establishment has remained a steady presence in Joburg gastronomy. For some it’s a place to be seen or meet your next business partner and, for others, it’s an opportunity to imbibe a great bottle of wine and try something new from the extensive menu, which was updated in March with riotously good additions.

Start with a hearty corn-and-mussel chowder complemented by a crispy bacon-and-garlic herb bruschetta, with a rare, chargrilled chimichurri ribeye for mains and a pineapple tart topped with pineapple salsa and whipped cheesecake to finish.   

March is my birthday month and, true to my default setting, the week I celebrated my birthday the culinary highlights were of the “high-low” variety. The latter at my old friend and colleague Sanza Sandile’s pan-African spread at the Yeoville Dinner Club and the former sampling selections from the new Signature menu.

My wife and I rarely order the same dishes but, miraculously, we both started with the seared tuna loin, “with horseradish crème, julienne apple, whole grain mustard and shaved fennel”. In other words, well, one word really: glorious. Although I had declared to be off the tipple for the night, I couldn’t resist accompanying it with a glass of crisp chenin blanc.  

The main was a perfectly seared and tender ostrich loin, with assorted charred and sautéed vegetables, accompanied by a blackberry jus. My better half’s glazed seabass was perfectly flaky, full of flavour, on a bed of braised sweet potato, sautéed bok choy, marinated seaweed, and panko-crusted shimeji mushrooms.  

After another false claim, this time about skipping dessert, we shared a chocolate brownie baked to perfection, with a dollop of ice cream to complete the sinfulness.

 As it celebrates 15 years and standing, I think the secret behind Signature’s consistency — notwithstanding high culinary standards and an understanding of the SA palette — is the affable, well-informed, and easy service. Our server Thando was an explosion of toothy joy, with the kind of warmth you would get in an African household paired with the care, knowledge, and professionalism you would get in a fine-dining establishment anywhere in the world. And just for that, I will keep going back.