Thanks to a one-of-a-kind geological feature, the allure of a string of private lodges, and proximity to Joburg, locals are joining the stream of foreign visitors heading through the gates of Pilanesberg National Park. And while it’s often seen as the reserve hiding behind Sun City, it may come as a surprise to some that it is the fourth-largest park in South Africa.
The reserve, formed in 1979, is situated in one of the planet’s most unique geological phenomena — a large alkaline rock-ring complex created in a volcanic eruption 1 200-1 300 million years ago. These hills form the park’s concentric border, with the northern curve crowned by the private Black Rhino Reserve, home to a handful of private lodges.
Lush Lodge is cradled by the eastern flank of the ancient hills rippling out into the remainder of the reserve. On my arrival on a crisp winter afternoon, lodge manager Dalmane van der Heever gives me the usual, “Welcome, and make your-self at home.” Turning around, I chuckle at the unexpected truth of his words — for a hot second I do think I’m back home: the adjacent dining table is beautifully dressed in the same Ardmore Sabie tablecloth that adorns my dining room.
The Lush life
Lost and found in the crater of an ancient volcano
Image: Jared in CPT
Thanks to a one-of-a-kind geological feature, the allure of a string of private lodges, and proximity to Joburg, locals are joining the stream of foreign visitors heading through the gates of Pilanesberg National Park. And while it’s often seen as the reserve hiding behind Sun City, it may come as a surprise to some that it is the fourth-largest park in South Africa.
The reserve, formed in 1979, is situated in one of the planet’s most unique geological phenomena — a large alkaline rock-ring complex created in a volcanic eruption 1 200-1 300 million years ago. These hills form the park’s concentric border, with the northern curve crowned by the private Black Rhino Reserve, home to a handful of private lodges.
Lush Lodge is cradled by the eastern flank of the ancient hills rippling out into the remainder of the reserve. On my arrival on a crisp winter afternoon, lodge manager Dalmane van der Heever gives me the usual, “Welcome, and make your-self at home.” Turning around, I chuckle at the unexpected truth of his words — for a hot second I do think I’m back home: the adjacent dining table is beautifully dressed in the same Ardmore Sabie tablecloth that adorns my dining room.
Halcyon holidays at the Hazendal Hotel
The lodge is spread across the property, with several lounge spaces, a dining room, an alfresco dining courtyard, a boma, a unique wine cellar, and a roof-top bar. Both the lodge entrance and bar feature granite slabs that were carefully excavated at the Golden Cascade quarry and proudly display their millions of years of age. These are juxtaposed with bright Ardmore ceramics and furnishings in styling that pays homage to the land’s history while echoing its vibrancy.
Image: Jared in CPT
In addition to the lodge’s luxury and deluxe suites, Lush has a brand new superior deluxe suite, and I feel justifiably smug as its second-ever guest. The suite offers complete privacy, as it’s the furthest away from the lodge. It also has the largest deck space of all the suites, allowing intimate and unique wildlife experiences.
While penning this piece, I am temporarily lost for words as three of the park’s elephants slowly graze their way past the suite. The new suite has been a passion project for the owners, the Lupini family, with Kyne Lupini leading the project and curating its décor herself, with furniture distinct from that in the other suites — including a custom-made whisky cabinet with fabric inlays and a book cabinet with a private library and luxuriant foliage.
Image: Jared in CPT
Image: Jared in CPT
The Africa-chic opulence spills into the outside space with a double shower, heated pool, lounge, and dining space. In short, this is a level of luxury I would usually associate with the slickest of the five-star lodges in the Kruger National Park. And yet, here I am, in under three hours’ drive from Joburg.
Adjacent to the suite is the spa, with pink marble and 6m-long folding doors that open to the outside, obliterating the need for soothing spa tracks: the rustling of the leaves and curious cackling of the louries provide a natural soundtrack. (Check if Kea is available — her healing hands are among the most talented I’ve experienced.)
Image: Jared in CPT
Morning game drives generally head to the south of the reserve, while the evening’s shorter drives explore the private concession. It’s essentially a safari best-of-both with access to public and private areas. Our ranger Hannes expertly guides us around the 50 000ha park and its furry residents, with a morning stop at the tranquil Mankwe Dam. All in Lush’s brand-new Land Cruiser, a beautiful creature itself.
Image: Jared in CPT
The bush, of course, never ceases to surprise, and with the right guide the daily drives have the potential of being memorable. As a seasoned safari-goer I’ve heard my share of trivia, but Hannes — even at the tender age of 22 — is a constant source of new information: the passing termite mounds with their concealed underground nests as big as tennis courts, the elephants we meet with an astounding 40 000 muscles in their trunks, and the ability of impala to delay birth by up to two weeks depending on weather conditions.
Our bush stops include all the usual safari trimmings, but with a few bonuses. Our morning “coffeechocarulas” (a glorious wake-up cocktail of coffee, hot chocolate, and Amarula) are accompanied by muffins and muesli pots. In the evening, the full bush bar is enhanced by a brochette served with a sumptuous biltong butter.
Image: Jared in CPT
The Lush chefs ensure that every meal is served with flair and flavour. I am particularly delighted to hear that this spring an ex-Mala Mala sommelier will arrive to take up the vino reins.
After the final night’s festivities around the boma, I return to the suite and get into the outdoor bath. With a stone-clad backing laden with lamps and a front-row view of the wild, I cannot be more removed from the strictures of city life — a welcome im-mersion into remoteness. Owner Brenno says it better than I can: “Lush is a space in time. Where for a moment we are afforded the brief opportunity to get lost in a world within a world. Hence, our slogan: This is Life. This is. Lush.”
lushprivatelodge.co.za
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• From the December edition of Wanted, 2023.