How to have the best vacation in Delhi

With a population of over 32-million, Delhi is a sprawl of people. Here, the very rich live side by side with the very poor, the former enjoying the high life and the latter jostling for an acceptable existence. Long perceived as a city of interminable traffic, poverty, dirt, and, quite frankly, an execrable smell, Delhi has changed post-Covid thanks to a massive clean-up that took place during lockdown and a substantial growth in UHNWI (ultra-high-net-worth individuals).

The city is now clean and reflects a sophisticated, moneyed economy. In fact, according to The Wealth Report for 2022, India has seen the sixth-highest growth in the number of self-made UHNWIs under the age of 40. Plus, its billionaire population grew by 24% to 145 dollar billionaires during 2020-21. With this comes bars, restaurants, and shops that rival those in London, New York, and Dubai.

WHERE TO STAY

• The Imperial Hotel

Some people go to Delhi and don’t leave The Imperial. Although it has a deep colonial past, it was once the home of Mahatma Gandhi and is now quietly undergoing a sophisticated refurb. Immediately soothing, the grand old dame, situated in the centre of the city, is approached via a lane of palm trees, with ushers greeting guests amid the scent of jasmine.

The rooms, resplendent with fine linen and rosewood furniture, provide a spotless sanctuary. The pool is heated in winter and chilled in summer, while the spa is an underground labyrinth that smells of roses and offers an array of treatments. Ultimately, The Imperial is a brilliant point from which to explore the bustle of Delhi — or a haven in which to spend indulgent days.

• The Lodhi

On the opposite side of the spectrum, The Lodhi is a gleaming ode to modernism, with most rooms boasting private plunge pools and spacious layouts. Identifiable by its distinct honey-coloured stone cladding, this slick, contemporary hotel feels super feng-shui-ed and has the echo of an urban spa, with stone screens, reflecting pools, and courtyards around every corner. In summer, the pool is a real pull — surrounded by white-curtained daybeds, this is an easy place in which to while away afternoons sipping delicious watermelon juice.

WHERE TO EAT

Besides family homes, the best food in Delhi can be found in hotel restaurants. Expect prices in the dollar range and be aware that tax on alcohol comes in at 25%, often adding a substantial extra to bills.

• Indian Accent

Located in the Lodhi, this sophisticated restaurant is a game changer when it comes to Indian cuisine. Indian Accent is a global award winner, and for good reason. The innovative menu takes staples such as samosas and fills them with apricot and goat cheese. Masala roti is served with green jackfruit and burrata, while an absolute favourite is the wild-mushroom kulcha served with truffle butter and black dal. Portions are small and full of surprises. With two seatings a night and a waiting list for drop-ins, expect fellow diners to be only the bestheeled, Gucci-wearing Delhi-ites.

• The Spice Route

Situated in The Imperial, The Spice Route is a recreation of a southern Indian temple — seven years in the making, it is completely hand painted by artisans brought in especially from a temple in Guruvayur, Kerala. The menu complements this southern-Indian heritage with delicious fish curries, fragrant rice dishes, and unfamiliar lamb curries. The chef’s tasting menu is pricey, but presents a core selection of key dishes. If a lot of it sounds um, foreign, don’t be shy to ask the waiters, who are not only experts at explaining the dishes but can also easily recount the origins of the menu.

• Megu

It may seem an anomaly to eat Japanese food in India, but Megu, in The Leela hotel, is the best of its kind in the city. Fish is imported from Tokyo’s Tsukiji market, and, like all good Japanese restaurants, Megu is not just about sushi and sashimi. Further offerings include 24hr braised pork belly, yakitori, and delicious zaru soba. The wine list is also excellent, plus there’s a selection of over 60 sakes to sample. 

WHERE TO DRINK

Indians love to party and while there is an array of bars dotted across the city, it’s good to know exactly which is the one to go to — at the moment, that’s hands-down the recently opened Miso Sexy in the Mehrauli district.

• Miso Sexy

Located on the top floor of the chic Ambawatta One complex, Miso Sexy lives up to its name: super sexy and gloriously opulent. On a terrace overlooking the 12th-century Qutub Minar complex, the bar serves innovative cocktails while the interior has beautiful Fornasetti-inspired walls and Venetianglass chandeliers. But the cocktails are the real pull, with a menu divided into four sections: sweet, sour, savoury, and umami. Moshi is a keen favourite, made with white rum infused with dried apricot and a kaffir-lime liqueur.

WHERE TO SHOP

• The Dhan Mill

Think of 44 Stanley on steroids. The Dhan Mill compound in the affluent Chhatarpur neighbourhood is a bit of a drive from central Delhi, but well worth the trip. In the pedestrian-only complex, artisanal fashion, home, and food outlets sit alongside specialty cafés such as Cocoloca, a chocolate emporium.

Napa Dori is exquisite, offering hand-made luxury leather goods to rival big-name brands such as Valextra and Connolly. There’s also a New York-style café serving brunch and excellent coffee. Alongside these offerings are some of India’s top-notch fashion designers, such as Sureena Chowdhri and Astha Narang, as well as a gallery showcasing contemporary art.

HOW TO GET THERE

The best way to get to Delhi, with a short change-over in Dubai, is with the Emirates flight that arrives mid-morning. Along with an easy check-in, personal service, crisp champagne and, of course, the flat beds, there are delicious food and lounge access in transit. Plus, on arrival in Delhi, there’s no need to manoeuvre through the taxi rank as a lovely, liveried driver is waiting to whisk you away in a five-star air-conditioned motor. As the old adage goes, “Start as you mean to go on!”.