With a new year comes a line-up of new season runway shows, making a new statement and redefining the trends and must-love pieces of yesteryear. These are some of the most notable shows from the Autumn/Winter 2018/19 menswear collections that showed in Paris and Milan, which kicked off the new fashion year on a strong note.
“I wanted to make it very body-conscious. With streetwear, more or less everything has become blurred, loose,” said Dior Homme’s creative director, Kris Van Assche. For SS18/19, Van Assche worked with and expert from the Christian Dior women’s atelier to help him adapt Dior’s womenswear tailoring know-how, into sharp new season suits with cinched waist suit jackets, reminiscent of the iconic Dior New Look silhouette.
Logomania is clearly still having a moment in 2018 with Fendi leading the way with everything from fur jackets, knits, gloves and luggage coming emblazoned with the brand’s signature double F logo. The runway which was set up as an airport – luggage carousel and all, also made a case for sleek casuals like long overcoats and drawstring trousers in classic checks in brown cream and bright yellow.
Redefining the suit was on the agenda at Lanvin as classic suiting was updated for the man on the move. Sharp tailoring in plain, checked and striped English-milled wools, was combined with graphic printed puffer jackets, botanical printed shirts and casual knits, for a nonchalant, urban take on men’s suiting.
Inspired by travel, nature and underground street culture, Kim Jones bid farewell to Louis Vuitton with a collection of canvas, fur and metallic fabrics, complete with detachable lining and metallic tape finishes and rock–textured prints which were developed from his own aerial landscape photographs taken from a helicopter in Kenya last summer. The highlight of the show? Fashion icons, Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss closing the runway in vinyl LV checked coats.
Haider Ackermann’s latest collection spoke to a sense of everyday ease with layered languid silhouettes with a romantic yet military feel. Lengthy robes with floral embroidery and quilted lining, were styled with silk and velvet trousers in looks that beg to be worn.
DRIES VAN NOTEN
Dries Van Noten’s new collection is a mix of traditional British menswear with contrasting tartan and check and decadent floral embroidery. Jackets featured oversized shoulders, shirts had extra long cuffs and trousers were tapered to perfection. You have to love Van Noten’s knack for layering textures and combing the unexpected.