Accompanying the ode to Peck’s is an equally delectable amasi and popcorn crisp and a clever twist on the canelé, the pastry here filled with a smoked feta and chive cream. They are diminutive, little bites but they set the scene for what’s to come, magnificently.
The bread course arrives: the twisted-and-knotted white bun has been filled with cheese and baked before being brushed with a generous lashing of beef fat at the table. It’s what an after-school corner-cafe cheese rolled tried to be, but just wasn’t. Warm, rich, cheesy, the fat gently coats your fingers as you dip the chunks into beautifully piped homemade butter with biltong shavings.
It’s then on to the main meal: the difference between the three and five course, is simply the fact that the latter includes all the starters and the suggested main of Chalmar rump and a choice of dessert, while the former includes a choice of starter, main and dessert.
I go for the five-course, which begins with the trio of starters. The yellowfin tuna as both tataki and tartare, the delicate cubed and cured fish hidden beneath a scale-like shell of thinly sliced radish, surrounded by the seared medallions accompanied by orange segments, tomato concasse and dill cream. It’s a clean and fresh dish, wonderful acidity balancing the rich, fatty tuna.