Grande Roche Hotel steps into a new era

What’s the waiting period to be labelled an icon? What is the minimum age to become a ‘grand dame’ of high-end hospitality? The Belmond Mount Nelson has welcomed guests since 1899. The Marine Hotel in Hermanus? Since 1902. In Umhlanga, the Oyster Box Hotel opened its doors for overnight stays back in 1954.

So is there a clock running down until a property can claim legendary status? It’s a question that niggled at me while walking between the vineyards of the Grande Roche Hotel, which, this year, marks its 30th year in business. A pearl anniversary beneath the pearls of granite that loom large on the mountain behind town? Fitting. And the fact that it’s only been 30 years might surprise some long-term visitors to this charming boutique hotel in the Paarl Winelands, 40 minutes drive from Cape Town.

In truth, the property dates further back than that: to 1717, when it was granted to Dutch settler Hermanus Bosman. He turned this land on the slopes of Paarl Mountain into a thriving farm, and it would stay in the family for the next two centuries.

When the historic manor was transformed into a hotel in 1992, it was only fitting that the restaurant was named for the family that set down deep roots here. Under chef Roland Gorgosilich Bosman’s would soon become one of SA’s leading restaurants, famous for its classical fine dining.

Those fortunes waxed and waned though, and by the late-2010s, the star of the winelands was looking a little faded. In 2019 new owners — locals Hansie and Theresa Britz — injected both new energy and capital into the property. Just in time for Covid-19, of course.

And as summer tightens its grip on the winelands, those pathways should lead you straight to the Kraal, where whitewashed walls enclose a large swimming pool. Here palm trees rustle above and deliciously cool waters take the edge off a sultry Paarl afternoon. Need a bottle of Chenin at the poolside? There’s waiter service on tap.

In the evening — don’t miss the signature brandy cocktail at the bar — you’ll find welcome signs of a return to the hotel’s reputation as a celebrated dining destination.

That’s thanks to chef Kevin Grobler, who now heads up the hotel’s culinary offering. Grobler has taken charge of high-end kitchens from France (Restaurant JAN) to Stellenbosch (Delaire Graff) and brings a sense of contemporary elegance and precision to the menu. The compact menu — a handful of options per course — is global in both inspiration and ambition. To start, the multilayered bisque surrounding my prawn ravioli would make a Frenchman weep. A heady char siu pork belly, plated with a varied interpretation of corn, showed restraint and focus on the plate. Even the vegetarian plate — so often ignored by chefs — revealed enormous creativity, the mille-feuille of potato and leek packed with flavour and texture.

While the restaurant space has been refreshed the dining is perhaps best experienced al fresco on the wide terrace. Here the sunset lends a pink tinge to the sandstone of the distant Du Toitskloof Mountains, and the lights of the Paarl winelands shimmer beyond the vines.

Hermanus Bosman certainly chose a fine spot for his farm all those centuries ago. Thirty years into the property’s new life as a boutique country hotel, and with new energy across the property, I think it’s fair to say that this elegant winelands bolt-hole can once again look to lay claim to its icon status.