Bertier and Glenfiddich blend Japanese sensibilities into shoe collaboration

Wanted Fashion Editor Sahil Harilal chats to bespoke shoemaker Jean Laurent Teplitsky about the rise of stilettos, investment footwear and the ever green ascent of the sneaker.

Sahil Harilal: Made-to-measure tailoring/corsetry is seen as the ultimate indulgence in a world where everything is for sale to everyone. Where does the real importance lie in a bespoke creation? 

Jean Laurent Teplitsky: True “bespoke” is for the discerning few. The term “bespoke” harks back to a time when all wearable attire was custom tailored by artisans to the precise measurements of a specific individual. It’s something that has remained the ultimate indulgence to those who appreciate the time, skill and passion that goes into a luxury hand-crafted product. Many things are coined “bespoke” or “luxury”, and the word loses some of its authenticity when overused, but only a few items actually live up to the term. 

SH: The Glenfiddich Grand Yozakura pays homage to a transient moment of floral beauty. How does one interpret something so ephemeral into a physical, wearable piece of footwear?

JL: Well, it was tough! We worked through a few different concepts before settling on our final iteration of something that would really appeal to a sneakerhead and give them an “ooooh” reaction. We were sure to keep to the style of the Glenfiddich Grand Yozakura limited edition branding while maintaining the connection to an instantly recognisable classic silhouette. A big challenge was prototyping the blossoms correctly to embellish the heels of the shoes to really celebrate that key element, as we wanted the design to complement the box set rather than compete with it. 

SH: Collaboration is at the heart of the Grand Yozakura. What Japanese design sensibilities or inspirations have been incorporated into this luxury sneaker?

JL: With many years in the bespoke shoemaking world I have spent quite some time with bespoke Japanese shoemakers. I use quite a few exclusively Japanese tools that are indispensable to elevating the fine finish of any Bertier pair of shoes. For this collaboration we kept the sensibilities of Japanese simplicity focusing on their incredible attention to quality and detail. With a splash of colour brought in by the iconic cherry blossoms. 

SH: What similarities do Bertier Customs and Glenfiddich share in their approach to innovation and product development? 

JL: We are both equally obsessed with quality, artisanal development and bringing niche elements to the public and that little element of je ne sais quoi. It’s very important to us to stick to traditional techniques while constantly evolving and staying on the cutting edge, which is only possible with a fully hands-on approach.

SH: Vegan/ mushroom leathers are taking the market by storm, how important is it to explore alternative leather options in a luxury space?

JL: We are in constant search of new and innovative materials to work with. I’m more inclined to incorporate recycled and recyclable materials into our work. Vegan leather now is very much a final form product, mostly made up of plastics and the like. Not our cup of tea. Mushroom leather on the other hand looks promising as well as lab-grown leather which is making great progress.

SH: In a world of waiting lists and extreme collaborations, how does bespoke customisation filter into the fast/slow fashion movements? 

JL: We are very much in the slow fashion universe. I come from a classically trained bespoke shoe background. I’ve worked on clients’ shoes that they’ve had for 20 years. A simple resole and a cleanup and they are good for another 20. This is why we focus on timeless sneaker silhouettes, something that would be equally happy on foot or in a display cabinet. What we are attempting is to bring a timeless piece that will last a lifetime into the world of exclusive fashion. If it’s not rare and it didn’t take time and skill to make, I don’t think you can call it luxury. 

SH: Exotic materials aside, how does one imbue luxury through craftsmanship into the shape and fit of footwear?

JL: It begins with not cutting any corners. Manufactured footwear is designed to be made quickly and affordably to meet a certain price point and profit margin. We incorporate a multitude of time-consuming steps to add rigidity where we need the shoe to keep shape, and suppleness where we need it to bend, this way keeping the shoes’ structural integrity day in day out. We double stitch on the few high-stress points on the shoes, every loose thread is tied off out of sight, and we add orthopaedic-designed insoles to our shoes with just the right amount of arch support and absorption. 

SH: With the rise and fall, and rise again of stilettos, where does bespoke shoemaking fall in the tempestuous tide of high fashion footwear?

JL: There is a growing trend towards bespoke hand-made goods — from shoes to shirts, suits and leather goods. And an incredible new wave of talented young bespoke-makers, mostly in Europe, the UK and Japan. I think social media, mostly Instagram, has had a huge impact on this with small, independent makers being able to access a global audience. Not to mention the bloggers and vloggers promoting these artisans. This with the less-is-more movement and a leaning towards fewer curated pieces in one’s wardrobe that speaks to the individual’s style.

SH: From Louis Vuitton to Ermenegildo Zegna the sneaker is entrenched in the fashion hall of fame as one of the most important pieces of footwear. What is the next phase in the evolution of the sneaker?

JL: I feel like the classics always win in the end. The big luxury brands bring a lot of innovation to their sneaker collections, they set the trend which all others follow. Yet most of them still keep their classic “retro”-inspired silhouettes front and centre and for good reason. I think they’ll outsell the “new”, “innovative” models in the long run. 

SH: What do you foresee as the next footwear style to invest in?

JL: It looks like the Adidas Samba is making a big comeback. It never quite went out, but with a lot of high-profile collaborations, they are looking to dethrone some mighty competition. 

As far as shoes as investment items goes, because that’s “a thing”, you can’t go wrong with a rare pair of AJ1s. Every time someone puts a pair on, that’s one less pair in circulation. However I’m a firm believer in buying as good a pair as you can afford and making it something that you love to wear. The most important thing is comfort. Shoes made for everyone don’t fit everyone equally, so find what works for you. 

SH: What tips can you share about keeping and caring for luxury footwear?

JL: Any shoe aficionado will tell you to never wear the same pair two consecutive days. The moisture from your foot permeates the materials during wear. It is important to rest the shoes for a day, so they can dry out. This way you avoid distorting the shoes. Use a neutral cream on leather and exotics, and a suede brush on suede, I always recommend treating suede and nubuck with a protective spray before wearing and repeat after every couple wears. 

I highly recommend Sneaker Lab’s products for cleaning and caring for your sneakers. I use their sneaker cleaner on our shoes before delivery making sure any dirt or marks picked up during the making process is removed. And I finish with their leather cream to add a nice layer of protection and make the colours pop.