Review | Chorus Restaurant at Waterkloof Wine Estate

I must admit it felt somewhat bittersweet when I found myself winding my way along the road and was greeted by the familiar sight of the magnificent steel, concrete and glass structure perched atop the Schapenberg in The Helderberg.

It was of course once The Restaurant at Waterkloof, and I was fortunate enough to enjoy many a meal there when it was under the helm of chef Gregory Czarnecki. It also makes me think of Overture, chef Bertus Basson’s recently closed Hidden Valley property and the many excellent meals I’d experienced there during the last decade. I am not one particularly fond of change, especially when that change involves the closing of two formidable restaurants. However change, I remind myself, is inevitable and I am excited to be heading to Chorus’s first official service — Basson’s latest venture which will now call this magnificent space home. The whimsical name is no doubt an homage to Overture, and I am keen to see what direction he’s taken as he embarks on this new journey.

This space with its magnificent views of False Bay and the wine estate vineyards, has been refurnished by Basson and interior designer Sandalene Dale Roberts of Naturalis. The now darker hew of the stained wooden floors and furniture contrast with a palate of stunning blues, from leather which covers both tabletops and chairs to the carpets which sit beneath them — bringing a more casual and warmer feel to the space which aligns with Basson’s style of cooking, while still showcasing the beauty of the building to full effect.

The menu offers the option of a four- or six-course tasting menu, both of which begin with canapés and a bread service. The delicious morsels of Huguenot gougeres, avocado and prawn tarts, and lettuce stems topped with crunchy spiced peanuts are served on the deck, allowing guests to take in the magnificent vistas along with a glass of Waterkloof Cap Classique. The little mouthfuls deliver an abundance of flavour with every bite.

We’re then shown to our table where the bread-course is served. The thick slices of the most exceptional, fresh out of the oven, homemade sourdough is to be generously slathered with a chicken schmaltz butter, complete with crispy chicken skin bits. It’s comfort in all the ways bread and butter should be, simple but so tasty.  

In typical Basson fashion the menu is a celebration of local flavours and seasonal ingredients, and is naturally currently showcasing spring in all its glory. The first course sees a light and flavourful green vegetable soup poured over spring vegetables, pressed cucumber, curried pickles and an in house-made cumin labneh — a superb combination of fresh produce and fragrant spice.

A raw swordfish tartare follows next, served with elements of nectarine, crushed almond and jalapeños and finished with a vibrant ajoblanco. The sweet fruit, chilli spice, crunchy nuts and creamy soup delivers punchy flavours to complement the meaty fish.

It’s then on to the second flight of starters, the first of which is a celebration of tomato. Delicately filled panzerotti moons are served simply with a tomato concasse, pickled onions and fresh basil atop a pour of olive oil and it’s then finished table side with a rich Huguenot cheese sauce. We finish the dish and lap up the remaining olive oil at the base with our spoons — it’s just that good, and a testament to Basson’s dedication to top-quality local produce.

The last of the starters arrives in the form of a chicken and langoustine dish, the crispy confit chicken thigh, together with the braai’d langoustine, sit atop a sweetcorn purée garnished with fresh peas and spring onion tops. It’s completed with a deeply flavourful langoustine broth which is served tableside — and simply tastes like more.

Mains call for Chalmar sirloin, the steak cooked to perfection — medium rare at the chef’s suggestion — is accompanied by charred Brussels sprouts, paper thin mushroom slices and a hearty beef shin jus. A portion of beef fat roasties drizzled with sweet mustard makes for a wholesome side.

Of course no meal at a Basson establishment would be complete without a souffle and Chorus doesn’t disappoint. This one is called ‘milk, bread and honey’ and is drizzled with a burnt caramel sauce and served with a side of ice cream. It is everything one could look for in a dessert and then some. The sticky caramel, the cloudlike souffle and the creamy cold ice cream working together in utmost harmony — it’s worth the trip out for the dessert alone.

The meal comes to a close with a petit four trolley, which arrives packed with decadent truffles, fudge and choux pastry puffs, the perfect nibble to accompany an end of meal espresso.

As we leave, winding our way down through the vineyards once again, I reflect once more. It is quite remarkable what the chef has managed to do here, it’s the first service and not only has he made the space his own, but he’s also done it with dignity and respect.

He’s not here to try to replace what once was or recreate Overture somewhere else, rather it’s a new beginning — and what a spectacular start it is! Chorus is Basson at his best — fresh, local and at times deceivingly simple cooking, delivering generous heaps of bold beautiful flavours and wonderful textures with every course.