The GP of timekeeping

MB&F’s futuristic timepieces are best described as “three-dimensional kinetic sculptures”, rule-breaking toys for grownups crafted in collaboration with the industry’s top talent and often recognised by their exaggerated domed crystals. The MB&F Legacy Machines Sequential EVO recently received the “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix “best in show” at the annual Fondation du Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) awards: the most anticipated event of the year for both watch professionals and enthusiasts.

Through the 21 prize categories, the GPHG acknowledges exceptional quality and prowess of the most sought-after Swiss brands as well as those from other lands. From remarkable, over-the-top timepieces such as this unique MB&F conceived by Belfast-based movement designer Stephen McDonnell, to everyday wearers such as the Tudor Pelagos FXD, here are a few of Wanted’s favourites from 2022, which received the unanimous vote of the GPHG jury.

Aiguille d’Or Grand Prix

During the awards ceremony held in Geneva in early November, MB&F CEO Maximilian Büsser was asked what makes the LM Sequential EVO unique, besides its incredible beauty. His reply highlighted that through “extraordinary technology and extraordinary thinking”, McDonnell has “reinvented the chronograph”. The LM Sequential EVO features a fully integrated dual chronograph calibre with two complete counter displays and functionality that can be operated independently of each other. For more visit mbandf.com

Challenge watch prize

This award if for the best watch retailing for less than Sf3,500 (about R62,550). M.A.D. Editions is one of Büsser’s side projects established 17 years ago to make more accessibly-priced watches but that still maintain the “crazy MB&F touch”. The 42mm M.A.D.1 RED launched in March and was allocated to buyers through a raffle system. Featuring a modified Miyota movement, the rotor replaces the dial as the main feature with time being read off a lateral display on the side of the case. For more visit shop.madgallery.ch

Diver’s watch prize

The Tudor Pelagos FXD is inspired by historic pieces used by a division of the French Navy since 1956 and was developed in conjunction with a special squad of combat swimmers. Receiving the 2022 Diver’s Watch award, this unique addition to the Pelagos collection has a 42mm titanium case that is waterproof to 200m and features extra-robust fixed strap bars. A 120-notch bidirectional rotating bezel has retrograde graduation from 60 to 0 for use in countdowns during underwater navigations. For more visit tudorwatch.com or Rolex Watch Co SA 011-784-9230.

Ladies’ watch prize

One of the most elegant releases of the year, the Parmigiani Tonda PF Automatic 36mm joins a collection first revealed for the 25th anniversary of the manufacture in 2021. The smaller case and harmoniously integrated bracelet of the worthy recipient of the Ladies’ watch prize are crafted from ethically sourced 18kt rose gold and features knurled bezel, minimalist dial with fine guilloché pattern and discreet baguette-cut diamond indexes. For more visit parmigiani.com or Picot & Moss 011-325-4119.

Audacity prize

The winner in this category is a watch that best represents a non-conformist approach to watchmaking. At a mere 1.80mm thin, the 40mm titanium cased Octo Finissimo Ultra 10th Anniversary demonstrates exceptional design and mechanical engineering on a micro scale and achieved the 8th consecutive world record for Bulgari in March — until Richard Mille revealed its 1.75mm RM UP-01 Ferrari in October.

This limited edition features a ratchet wheel engraved with a unique QR code, connecting each of the 10 pieces to its digital passport, highlighting the industry’s focus on traceability of product and chain of custody. Inside beats the ultra-thin manual winding in-house calibre BVL180 movement with a 50-hour power reserve. For more visit Bulgari.com or Bulgari Boutique 011-883-1325.

Jewellery watch prize

Taking home this prize demonstrated once again Bulgari’s mastery of high jewellery design and gem-setting. Inside the jaw of the 18kt rose gold Serpenti Misteriosi is the “secret watch” that features the in-house micro-calibre Piccolissimo, proclaimed to be “one of the smallest mechanical movements to date”. For more visit Bulgari.com.

Chronometry prize

Movement designer Takuma Kawauchiya and his team at Grand Seiko created the T0 Constant-force Tourbillon concept movement revealed in 2020. The evolution of this movement into the smaller and even more accurate Caliber 9ST1 featured for the first time in finished watch this year. Setting the perfect beat, the spectacularly captivating Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon is the exclusive brand’s first mechanical high complication and “a first for horology”.

Kawauchiya expresses his passion for music through the unique beat of the Kodo (meaning “heartbeat” in Japanese), which was inspired by the sound made by the motion of the coaxial tourbillon and constant-force mechanisms. Read our full review.

Innovation prize

The Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Heures Florales Cerisier received this award out of all categories for its “innovative vision of time measurement”. Read our full review.

Icon prize

TAG Heuer Monaco X Gulf receives the award for a watch from an symbolic collection that has left a lasting impression on watchmaking history and the market for more than 20 years. Back in 1969, the now iconic square-cased Monaco was powered by the revolutionary Calibre 11 Chronomatic — the first automatic chronograph movement – and originally featured a crown unconventionally positioned on the left.

The new “refined version” this year is powered by the in-house Heuer 02 automatic movement with its crown shifted right. The Gulf brand livery of blue and orange was synonymous with the golden era of racing in the 1960s and 1970s as was its partnership with JW Automotive Engineering. The famous engineering team will be remembered for its numerous wins at the 24 Hours of Le Mans in the Porsche 917.

One of the team’s most renowned drivers, Jo Siffert, was one of Heuer’s first ambassadors, as Steve McQueen’s driving coach for the film Le Mans. TAG Heuer first used the Gulf colours on a special edition Monaco in 2007 to celebrate these ties and the 2022 edition is likely to become just as collectible but this time also to marking the end of the petroleum era as we know it. Visit tagheuer.com or Picot & Moss 011-669-0500.

Tourbillon prize

Known for applying an unconventional lens to the meticulous art of high-end watchmaking, H. Moser & Cie has been a most worthy winner of numerous GPHG awards in recent years. Most notably for the beautiful Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic and Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H Moser x MB&F in 2020.

The sculptural Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton in 2022 is a work of art and without exception demonstrates the Schaffhausen-based Manufacture’s expertise and contemporary aesthetic inspired by the world of industrial machinery. Under the domed sapphire crystal the new HMC 811 calibre with its cylindrical one-minute flying tourbillon is in full view.

With its robust and sporty 42.8mm steel Pioneer case featuring water-resistance to 120m, this work of art is also built to be a practical everyday companion. For more visit h-moser.com or Boutique Haute Horlogerie 011-325-4119.

Complication prizes

Hermès took home both the Men’s and Ladies’ Complication prizes for its magical Arceau Le Temps Voyageur 41mm and 38mm watches that evoke the spirit of travel and inspire one to dream. The Arceau watch design with its characteristic single stirrup-shaped lug dates back to the 1970s and its round case has framed numerous dials that are playful expressions of time.

The 41mm and 38mm Le Temps Voyageur novelties are presented in platinum with a matt black DLC-treated titanium bezel and in steel respectively, both housing the Maison’s interpretation of a “travelling time” high complication. Integrated into the Hermès H1837 mechanical self-winding movement the indicator at 12 o’clock displays home time while a mobile “satellite” floats above a fantasy map and displays local time as it circumnavigates the outer global city flange. Enquiries at hermes.com or Picot & Moss, 011 669 0500