Chronomaster moves with the times

Introduced in 1969, the Zenith A386 tri-colour chronograph featured the El Primero Calibre 400, the world’s first automatic high-frequency integrated chronograph movement, which has proven its reliability and precision for 53 years.

The story of that movement continues in the El Primero Calibre 3600, which was first featured in the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie Opende Genève award-winning Zenith Chronomaster Sport last year and now beats at 36 000 vibrations per hour (VpH) — or 5Hz — inside the 2022 Zenith Chronomaster Open.In 2003, the launch of the first Chronomaster Open brought the regulating heart and escapement of the legendary El Primero movement into view. With its “daring design”, this was the first time that a chronograph featured a partially open dial.

Almost 20 years on, the new Chronomaster Open joins the latest-generation Chronomaster collection. Responding to the growing interest from female consumers in mechanical watches and a shift to unisex sizing, the case size now measures 39.5mm rather than the 42mm of the previous model, and takes its cue from the Chronomaster Original. Our featured novelty has an 18kt rose-gold case and matte silver dial, and comes with a blue calfskin-leather strap. Reflecting our new lifestyles and the growth of the luxury sports segment, the Chronometer Open is also available in steel-on-steel with matte-black or silver dials. The case is water resistant to 100m.

Revisiting the distinctive tri-colour dial layout, the facelift refinements include the use of more contemporary grey tones and chamfered edges to the circular openings. A readable small seconds counter at 9 o’clock — no longer entirely cut out — is reintroduced through a hesalite crystal that still allows us to view the escape wheel. A sapphire case back and the open base plate and bridge design offer a clearer view of the El Primero 3604 1/10th-of-a-second automatic chronograph movement — a modified version of the Calibre 3600. The movement features material and technical upgrades, reduced parts, and improved functionality for the new age.

Its automatic winder with an open star-shaped oscillator produces a power reserve of 60 hours. Resonating with its Horizon initiative to develop ecologically conscious products and services, Zenith also supports entrepreneurship in its collaboration with Nona Source, an online resale platform, producing capsule collections of watch straps made from excess high-fashion textiles as seasonal updates compatible with its Chronomaster collection.

Zenith Chronomaster Open gold, R375 000, Zenith Chronomaster Open steel-on-steel, white dial, R185 000, www.zenith-watches.com or Picot & Moss 011 669 0500.