Review | Beyond at Buitenverwachting
Internationally renowned chef Peter Tempelhoff’s Constantia restaurant exceeds expectations
There are few local restaurant teams as formidable as Peter Tempelhoff, Jennifer Hugé and Ashley Moss. The dynamic trio behind Cape Town’s award-winning Fyn — recently awarded 37th place in the world on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list — and the Constantia wineland’s gem, Beyond at Buitenverwachting.
It’s the latter I find myself visiting on this blue skied Sunday afternoon, Cape Town’s unusually warm winter showing off the picturesque winelands to full effect. The restaurant, with its earth tones, terracotta and natural woods, boasts expansive windows overlooking the sloped vineyards of the historic estate.
As it’s a Sunday, and Sunday’s naturally call for long, lazy lunching, we opt for the Beyond tasting experience: a six-course menu that puts the decisions firmly in the hands of the chef. A two- and three-course à la carte offering is available for those looking for a reduced dining experience.
We begin with the roasted sweet potato epi, the wheat stalk shaped rolls are to be enjoyed along with rosemary cultured butter and a rosemary infused oil. It’s a simple yet elegant start to the meal, which is followed shortly by the amuse-bouche, a clever little dish of cured trout and celeriac remoulade with elements of kelp, beets and fennel, finished with a blood orange and fennel vinaigrette. It’s a wonderful contrast of flavour and texture, the fresh trout juxtaposed against the deep, earthy celeriac.
Of course, I would be remise to write about a restaurant helmed by Jennifer Hugé without mentioning the wine programme. As with Fyn, she has compiled an exciting and phenomenally well-considered pairing menu. Juggling a selection of interesting Buitenverwachting wines, as well as a host of other top South African winemakers. A highlight is the 2007 vintage of Vriesenhof’s Bordeaux blend, the Kalista, which paired superbly with the springbok main. Just beautiful.
Beautiful food, a stellar wine selection and magnificent views of the vineyards and mountains means there’s very little else one could ask for to make for a more delightful lunch in the winelands. Tempelhoff and team once again deliver a simply outstanding fine dining experience.