Explore the heady and historic magic of Ilha de Mocambique
One of southern Africa’s best kept secrets
Despite being so small and remote, there’s a cosmopolitan feeling to Ilha de Moҫambique. This three-kilometre-long island is 2000km north of the capital of Maputo, and a two hour drive from the nearest big town of Nampula. Yet, it attracts travellers from Denmark, Sweden, Australia, Britain, Italy and Portugal, many of whom are buying places here; and is home to architects, historians, style queens and escapists. This is not your average Seffrican prawns and beer holiday; Ilha de Moҫambique is about style, soul, history and architecture. Here’s what you need to know:
THE WOW FACTOR The architecture and history of Stone Town. Think narrow corridors and alleyways, ancient double volume buildings with interior courtyards. Stone Town here is like Zanzibar Lite and without the crowds. Many of the buildings are still in disrepair, which lends its own strange charm, but increasing numbers are being restored and refurbished. A meander through Stone Town is fascinating. The island is wrought from explorers and pirates, from colonialism, slavery and civil war. There is a dark edge to these timeworn passages, a deep resonance to footfall on its ancient stones.
THE MOST CHARMING GUESTHOUSE From the rooftop terrace at Jardim dos Aloes (garden of aloes) you can see the Milky Way at night, the star maps that guided the ancient mariners. Jardim dos Aloe is an Afro-Mediterranean guesthouse with Egyptian touches, right in the middle of Stone Town, run by the delightful Italian Bruno Musti and his Mozambican wife Judy. Each suite is differently decorated and there are lovely gardens, courtyards, terraces and hideaways. jardim-dos-aloes.com
THE MOST HISTORICAL STAY Once a warehouse for a fishing company, the Terraҫo das Quintadas is a fascinating luxury hotel cum museum. The 400-year-old house is filled with furniture and objets from Goa, Bali, East Africa, China and the Orient. You can really feel the whisper and creak of history here. We stayed in a room with enormous wooden chairs and a massive egg-shaped bath. Take some time to explore the décor, courtyards and balconies. terracodasquitandas.com
For tailor-made trips to Ilha de Moҫambique contact Dana Tours danatours.net For local adventures like boat trips, kayaking, snorkelling, whale watching, bicycle tours and more, contact Ilha Blue Island Safaris.