JAPAN
A spiritual journey in Japan
Finding peace of mind and renewed energy on the Kumano Kodo, in the cultural and historical heart of Japan
In 2013, I took a much-needed sabbatical to escape media overload. I’m not a man of huge means but I did manage to find sanity and rediscovered my inner metronome – I’ll even admit to a bit of spiritual reawakening – beginning with three-and-a-half weeks on the Camino de Santiago, in northern Spain. I was a slow learner, but now understand the immense value in taking time out particularly on a well-worn trail.
I more recently found peace of mind and renewed energy on the Kumano Kodo, in the cultural and historical heart of Japan.
According to the tourism bureau, Kumano is the ancient name for this southern part of the Kii Peninsula, the largest in Japan, and is a spiritual hot spot containing the Ise-jingu shrine, Yoshino and Omine, Koyasan and the sacred Kumano Sanzan Shrines. Kumano is associated not only with Yomi-no-Kuni, the mythical land of the dead, but also Buddhist celestial paradises.
As this was my first visit to Japan, and in retrospect was unnecessarily concerned about communication issues, I opted for one of the ‘model itineraries’ offered by the tourism bureau in Tanabe, the starting point on the hike. ‘The Nakahechi’ or ‘The Imperial Route to Kumano’ is promoted as a five-night, six-day trail but in reality you are only walking longer distances for four of these. The average distance is about 15km, with the longest day at 21km. There is ample time for quiet contemplation, to admire the natural splendour, bathe in a brook and rest at the modest, moss-covered Oji shrines.
Don’t panic about language. Apart from the fact that most people can understand enough English to get by, a World Heritage site stipulation requires that all signs and information boards carry clear translations.
Due to commitments at home I travelled in June at the start of the summer rain season. The temperature was comfortable and ranged from the mid-to-late 20s, humidity was in its early 80s, but bearable higher up in the forests. Fortunately I only had one day of rain. The way was damp and often paved with ancient cobble stones so can be slippery at times — not unlike the Tsitsikamma I suppose. I managed very well in my quick-drying Vivo Barefoot trail running shoes but I’d recommend trekking shoes with a more substantial grip.
GETTING THERE:
Tokyo was my port of entry so I jumped on the high-speed Shinkansen to Osaka via Nagoya and then a local train to Kii-Tanabe station where you will find the local tourism office with the Kumano Travel desk. Most of the train journey is along the scenic coastline.
The 4,5 to 5hr train journey from Tokyo via Osaka to Kii-Tanabe costs about 14000 yen (approximately R2000) one way, or you can fly with Japan Airlines into Wakayama’s Nanki-Shirahama Airport from Tokyo for about 20000 yen (approximately R2800) one way, then take a 15 minute bus ride to Tanabe City.
STAY:
The 5-night ‘Nakahechi’ itinerary option, which included accommodation, dinner, breakfast and bento, cost around 52500 yen (approximately R7250).
For more information visit the Tanabe City Kumano Tourism Bureau website for options.