REVIEW: Chef Katlego Mlambo returns to the Marabi club
The young South African chef and TV personality returns to the Marabi club for a pop-up and his cooking is better than ever
Award-winning local chef Katlego Mlambo has once again taken up residency at the trendy Marabi jazz club within the Joburg inner city’s Hallmark House Hotel.
Rather than a permanent stint, this time the young chef and TV-personality has embarked on a multi-month pop-up which sees him bring back some of his most-loved dishes and exciting new additions to the small plate menu for which the club has become known.
To start there’s Thai-style oysters — served with a sweet, salty, spicy and sour Nam Jim dressing — and a comforting bone marrow and bread course, the rich marrow served in bone covered with a crispy topping and fried capers to be enjoyed on the fresh out of the oven bun together with a selection of hummus, chakalaka and a tangy amasi curd.
The fan-favourite fish tacos are, of course, included too. The cured line fish, accompanied by jalapeño, avocado, passion fruit and pickled ginger, is sandwiched between two paper-thin crisp ‘taco’ shells. It’s a dish of equal parts texture and flavour, the crunch of the shell, the delicate ceviche, the creaminess of the avocado, sweetness of the passion fruit and the dash of spice making for a fantastic mouthful.
Mlambo’s return to Marabi, though it may be temporary, is one to be heralded. The chef bringing his impressive and honed skill set, appreciation and understanding of African ingredients, techniques and flavours paired with unbridled creativity to the table in a way few young chefs are doing today.
It’s food that doesn’t take itself too seriously, but impresses nonetheless.It’s fun and flavour-forward, well-aligned with the feel of not only the sultry jazz club which it serves but also of the contemporary-cool Hallmark House and this bustling part of Joburg.
The Marabi club is open Thursdays to Saturdays from 6pm until late, and for two Sundays a month from noon until 3pm.
The pop-up closes on June 30
To book visit hallmarkhouse.info/marabi
Email: info@themarabiclub.com
Call: 010 591 2879.