A flying escape to icy Antarctica

It was not all that long ago when only hardy explorers and grizzled scientists could say that they had spent time in Antarctica. It is, after all, the coldest, highest, driest and windiest continent on earth. So not exactly an obvious inclusion for any tourist brochure.

And yet Antarctica has captivated the popular imagination, and tourism to the deep south is booming. According to the International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators (Iaato), more than 100,000 tourists paid a visit to Antarctica and its surrounding seas in 2023.

But of those, a mere 821 — less than 1% — set foot in the interior ice fields that offer a true glimpse of the icy south. And that’s where Ultima Antarctic Expeditions will be taking guests from November 2024, when the next summer season begins.

Ultima Antarctic Expeditions and its sister-company, Ultima Antarctic Logistics, have more than 20 years of experience in taking visitors to Antarctica. Working with the national Antarctic programmes of more than a dozen countries, they have a wealth of knowledge in logistics, supplies and supporting visitors down south.

And now they’re sharing that experience, with “expedition” packages offering a handful of adventurous travellers the unique opportunity to fly into the continent each summer. And aside from dodging the notorious Drake Passage, one of the world’s roughest sea crossings that cruise ships must tackle below South America, a fly-in visit allows “expeditioners” to access more remote, under-explored corners of Antarctica.

It’s not a new concept. Other luxury Antarctic operators, such as White Desert, already fly in a chartered Gulfstream and offer opulent five-star dome accommodation.

But with Ultima expeditioners will be hitching a ride with global scientists and support staff heading for national research bases on the continent. Aboard a Russian-built Ilyushin-76 — often seen on the tarmac of Cape Town International Airport — it takes under six hours to trade the Mother City for the icy expanse of Antarctica.

“We don’t have dedicated tourist flights. Rather we have a small number of seats reserved for expedition travellers, as part of our regular service of the national Antarctic programs,” says Murray Williams, spokesperson for Ultima Antarctic Expeditions, a provisional member of Iaato. “What’s more, the cost charged to expeditions cross-subsidises the cost; a real example of tourism helping to fund science on the continent.”

And while other operators trade in unimaginable luxury at the bottom of the world, Ultima opts for comfortable accommodation and an intensely immersive experience at the Oasis Camp, set in the Schirmacher Oasis of freshwater lakes and icy waterfalls.

“We prefer to align our entire brand experience with the concept of authenticity,” says Williams. “Antarctica has such a long and fascinating history where famous pioneers have achieved so much. Our Oasis camp retains the same footprint as before, with three Scandinavian timber cabins built to withstand any kind of weather.”

These have all recently been refurbished inside, reconfiguring bedrooms and adding bay windows to make the most of the dramatic views across a nearby nunatak, a permanent ice sheet pierced by rocky ridges. A communal dining area offers yet more views, and because these cabins were built by skilled Scandinavian craftsmen it includes, of course, a traditional banya sauna.

Expedition travellers have a range of options to visit through Ultima. The core experience is a seven-day stay in Antarctica, which could include a flying visit to a nearby colony of Emperor penguins or a longer excursion to the South Pole.

Back at Oasis camp, days are spent hiking, walking and fat-biking in the surrounding ice fields, with longer excursions to a towering ice wall, and a mesmerising ice cave on the edge of the continental ice shelf. Although wildlife beyond the penguin colonies is scarce, there is a small amount of birdlife to look out for, including the hardy snow petrel.

“We keep our guests busy,” says Williams. “But also remember it’s very cold — the ambient temperature can range from -5°C to -40°C — and every foray outdoors requires layers of protective gear. So it takes time and can be tiring.”

While a week on the ice is right at the top of my travelling bucket list, the depth of my pockets means I may have to content myself with the Ultima Day expedition.

This 24-hour odyssey starts with the morning flight out of Cape Town, touching down on the blue-ice runway mid-afternoon. There begins 11 hours on the ice: just enough time to explore the nunatak, hike to the ice tunnel and soak up the ethereal midnight sun before a 2am departure back to the Mother City. It is, I imagine, a transformative experience.

“When you return, it takes a few days for you to realise what you’ve just undertaken,” agrees Williams. 

Ultima Antarctic Expeditions will run from November 2024 through to February 2025. Expeditions are fully inclusive of flights, accommodation, meals, excursions in Antarctica and highly qualified guides. Expeditions range from $16,000 for the 24-hour Ultima Day, through to $75,000 for the seven-day South Pole and Emperor Penguin Expedition.

I’m off to start saving.