Colour has long been central to Bulgari’s design language. Since the 1950s, the Roman jeweller has become known for pairing unexpected gemstones in combinations that challenged the more restrained conventions of fine jewellery. Its latest releases continue that tradition, with two Doppio Baccellato rings and three Tubogas bracelets joining a collection that began with three necklaces unveiled in 2024.
The Doppio Baccellato rings are defined by a detail that predates the brand by centuries. Their ribbed surface, known as baccellatura, draws inspiration from classical Greek and Roman architecture, where the technique was used to create texture, depth and the play of light across stone. Reinterpreted in jewellery, it gives the rings a sculptural quality that feels both historic and modern. Crafted in 18-carat yellow and pink gold, the ribbing gives each a sculptural weight that reads clearly even at a distance.
The gemstones are cut as cabochons rather than traditional faceted stones, allowing colour to take centre stage. Their smooth, rounded surfaces create a softer, richer appearance that suits Bulgari’s aesthetic. The rings are available in two combinations: citrine with blue topaz, which offers a striking contrast of warm and cool tones, and amethyst with peridot, a pairing with a quieter, more understated feel. Each ring combines two distinct elements, giving the design a sense of balance and movement.
The Tubogas bracelets explore a different visual language. While the rings are rounded and organic, the bracelets introduce sharper lines through a geometric, triangular motif. The contrast works well, particularly when the pieces are worn together. Made using Bulgari’s signature Tubogas technique, where strips of gold are coiled into flexible, seamless forms without soldering, the bracelets combine engineering with wearability. Rubellite, tanzanite and green tourmaline provide bold flashes of colour against the gold.
Underpinning it all is the Tubogas technique itself, one of the house’s signatures. Gold is wrapped into flexible coils without soldering, producing bracelets that appear rigid but move comfortably on the wrist.
The craftsmanship behind the pieces is easy to overlook, which is perhaps the point. Creating the precise ribbed baccellatura finish requires meticulous goldwork, while the Tubogas construction remains one of jewellery’s more technically demanding techniques. Even the cabochon gemstones, despite their apparent simplicity, rely on exceptional material quality, as there are no facets to distract from imperfections or uneven colour.
Rather than introducing a completely new direction, these pieces refine ideas the house has been exploring for decades: sculptural goldwork, bold colour and a willingness to balance opposing forms.
The new Doppio Baccellato rings and Tubogas bracelets are now available from Bulgari boutiques and online.
bulgari.com / picotandmoss.co.za
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