To the uninitiated, Zagato may sound like something you’d find in an Italian pasticceria or gelateria. Those in the know, however, recognise it as one of the most storied names in bespoke automotive design.
Founded in 1919, the Milanese studio is part of a select group of historical coachbuilders from the early 20th century, particularly from the Italian school, including Pininfarina, Carrozzeria Touring Superleggera, Carrozzeria Ghia and Bertone. Beyond Italy, the tradition extends to firms such as Mulliner in the UK, considered the oldest, dating back to the 16th century.
These ateliers began as makers of horse-drawn carriages. As the motorcar emerged, they became essential partners, designing and constructing the bodywork while manufacturers focused on mechanical engineering. Many evolved into design houses, engineering consultancies, or producers of ultra-exclusive, low-volume vehicles. While several were absorbed by major manufacturers, a handful of independent studios remain, alongside new bespoke specialists.
In an era saturated with mass-produced luxury and fast consumption, the highest end of the market continues to shift towards individuality. This is evident in the automotive and watch worlds, where collectors increasingly value scarcity, story, and craft. While smaller independent watchmakers often lead this creative charge, many of the grandes maisons also showcase technically ambitious, design-led statements.
The partnership began in 2013 during the legendary Mille Miglia (Thousand Miles) rally when Chopard co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele met Andrea Zagato, the third generation of his family to lead the famous Milanese design house. Scheufele’s passion for classic cars has long shaped the maison’s identity, most visibly through its role as world sponsor and official timekeeper since 1988 of this 1,609km endurance race. Chopard’s Mille Miglia collection, spanning Classic and GTS lines, reflects this heritage, with annual limited Race Editions marking each rally.
Their first collaboration, the Mille Miglia Zagato Chronograph, debuted the same year. Now, the new Zagato Lab One Concept — the third joint project — pushes further into avant-garde territory under Zagato’s head of design, Norihiko Harada. Harada’s portfolio includes work for marques such as Lamborghini, Maserati, Aston Martin, Porsche, BMW, Spyker, and Toyota, and the watch reflects the same experimental spirit. This timepiece is most certainly one I can’t wait to test-drive at Watches & Wonders Geneva in April.
Unveiled recently at Salon Rétromobile in Paris, the piece features a 42mm case in anthracite-grey ceramicised titanium, extending to the bridges and main plate. At just 43.2 g, including the technical fabric strap, it is Chopard’s lightest titanium watch to date. The tubular architecture draws inspiration from concept-car frameworks, balancing rigidity and weight reduction.
Stripped back further, the movement’s main plate doubles as the dial, decorated with Zagato’s signature “Z” motif. Pivoting tubular loops replace traditional lugs for improved ergonomics, while the crown features differential gear-inspired ridges and is engraved with the emblematic steering wheel of Chopard’s Classic Racing codes. A glass box-sapphire crystal is fitted flush with the case band to accentuate legibility, and a similar treatment to the case back extends the case band while providing a view of the movement.
An evolution of the manufacture’s Engine One Tourbillon, the L.U.C Calibre 04.01-L now adopts a round format. Mounted on silent blocks to absorb shock, the movement echoes the installation of a car engine. The 60-second tourbillon, capped by a small-seconds display, incorporates a Variner balance and a hairspring with a Phillips terminal curve. These are held within a lightweight aluminium carriage. COSC certification, a power reserve of 60 hours, and water resistance to 50m complete the technical brief.
Limited to 19 pieces in reference to Zagato’s founding on April 19 1919, it is a bold, futuristic expression of the brands’ shared devotion to performance, design, and individuality.
POA, chopard.com or Architects of Time 021-421-4296 and Boutique Haute Horlogerie 011-325-4119.
Wanted
