From Milan with love: Why Iconica is Pomellato’s signature statement

Pomellato Iconica embodies everyday elegance with a twist — sculptural, stackable jewellery that can be worn solo or layered

Jane Fonda, one of Iconica’s iconic ambassadors. (Supplied)

Founded in Milan in 1967 by Pino Rabolini, who grew up in a family of goldsmiths, Pomellato was built on a refreshingly modern idea: fine jewellery does not have to be saved for special occasions. Inspired by the rise of ready-to-wear fashion, Rabolini imagined bold, colourful pieces meant to be mixed, layered and worn every day.

Nearly six decades later, and now part of the Kering group, the Maison remains proudly Milanese, with every creation still handcrafted in-house. Its signature style nods to the city’s goldsmithing heritage while capturing Milan’s creative, slightly unconventional spirit. Pomellato is known for its casual-luxury approach, with joyful, vibrant coloured stones, expressive combinations of gems and metals, and the now-iconic Nudo collection, introduced in 2001. Revolutionary at the time, Nudo freed gemstones from heavy settings, allowing them to “float” and take centre stage.

Iconica, one of Pomellato’s most celebrated collections, launched in 2017 to mark the Maison’s 50th anniversary. The original 17-piece line, crafted in rose and white gold, included rings, bracelets and pendant necklaces designed to be stacked or worn solo. Drawing on the sleek gold-band rings of the 1970s, Iconica re-interpreted the classic form with bold, sculptural silhouettes and playfully cut diamonds. The collection highlighted Pomellato’s mastery of gold and chain-making. Its 18-carat rose-gold link bracelets, offered in three sizes, could connect seamlessly into a necklace thanks to an invisible clasp, opening up endless styling possibilities.

Last year, Iconica returned to the spotlight with a new chapter in the collection, captured in an intimate video series featuring ambassadors Jane Fonda, Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu and Benedetta Porcaroli. Each reflected on what it means to be “iconic” and how Iconica embodies individuality, strength and timeless appeal. Fonda summed it up perfectly: “An icon is something that represents its time and culture and is truly beloved. It’s bold, it’s simple, it’s elegant, and that’s what makes it iconic. I feel iconic when I wear it.”

Radiant yellow gold now takes centre stage in a contemporary reinvention of Iconica. Featuring a statement lariat necklace, co-ordinating bracelet and earrings, the collection celebrates feminine strength through bold, masterfully crafted chain motifs and brightly hued stones

Here are some of our favourite Iconica pieces, perfect worn alone to steal the spotlight or layered in glamorous stacks for full effect.

Iconica jewels, including a cocktail ring, slim ring, earrings and a reversible necklace in 18-carat rose gold. (Supplied)

A covetable selection of Iconica jewels includes a cocktail ring, slim ring, earrings and a reversible necklace in 18-carat rose gold, set with a vivid mix of green and pink sapphires, orange sapphires, rubies, amethysts and blue sapphires. The pieces showcase Pomellato’s flush-mount technique, where recessed settings carved in decorative gem-cut shapes create a striking visual illusion that highlights both the coloured gemstones and the Maison’s craftsmanship.

Iconica drop earrings (Supplied)

These Iconica drop earrings are crafted in 18-carat rose gold and set with 206 white diamonds in Pomellato’s signature irregular pavé, finished in white rhodium-plated rose gold. Their multi-link design creates a luminous play of light and movement.

Iconica necklace in 18-carat yellow gold. (Supplied)

The Iconica necklace in glowing 18-carat yellow gold features beautifully proportioned links, striking worn alone or as part of a parure.

A range of Iconica earrings. (Supplied)

This range of Iconica earrings includes styles in 18-carat rose gold set with 13 white diamonds cut into princess, marquise, triangle, star and drop shapes, as well as designs featuring 136 white diamonds in white rhodium-plated rose gold, alongside minimalist 18-carat rose-gold earrings.

A selection of Iconica rings. (Supplied)

From top to bottom: the slim ring in 18-carat rose gold set with 97 white diamonds in white rhodium-plated rose gold; the extra slim ring in 18-carat rose gold set with three white diamonds; and the medium-large ring in 18-carat rose gold set with five white diamonds.

Pomellato and the Iconica collection (all POA) available at BHH Boutique: V&A Waterfront (021 418 1889) and Hyde Park Corner (011 325 4119).

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