Cartier unveiled

The Cartier exhibition at the V&A Museum South Kensington is a glittering journey through over a century of art, design, and craftsmanship. While the brand was founded in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier, this must-see show begins with his grandsons — Louis, Pierre, and Jacques — who turned a family business into a global icon. With inspired design, craftsmanship, and technique, Cartier has not only set the gold standard for luxury but also adapted to cultural and social shifts, ensuring its timeless allure.

Divided into themed sections featuring the jewels themselves alongside archival images, film, and sketches, the exhibition unfolds like a journey through Cartier’s multifaceted world. The first section considers the brand’s creativity, showcasing global inspirations, ranging from French architecture and a scarab brooch to Indian jewellery and an Islamic-inspired diamond piece.

The second section dives into its masterful use of materials and techniques, offering a behind-the-scenes look at the workshops where the magic happens. Here, visitors can marvel at the quality of the materials, including delicate jade beads and a showstopping 101ct vivid-yellow diamond brooch.

The final section celebrates how Cartier shaped its image to become one of the world’s most recognisable luxury maisons, through pioneering marketing strategies — public exhibitions, fashion-magazine features, film appearances, and high-profile society loans — all carefully orchestrated to cement its image of glamour and prestige.

It’s also fascinating to explore Cartier’s deep connection to royalty — after all, the brand was famously dubbed “the jeweller of kings and the king of jewellers”. Whether it’s the exquisite rose clip brooch given to Princess Margaret in the late 1930s or the enormous ceremonial necklace commissioned by Sir Bhupinder Singh, the maharaja of Patiala, the exhibition offers remarkable insights.

A must-see is the collection of the Duke and Duchess of Windsor. The controversial couple were devoted patrons of Cartier, amassing a dazzling array of pieces. Among the most memorable are a playful flamingo brooch, commissioned by the Duke and crafted from rubies, sapphires, emeralds, citrine, diamonds, platinum, and gold; and a seriously spectacular bib necklace featuring amethysts, turquoise, diamonds, gold, and platinum.

The exhibition culminates in a breathtaking display of tiaras, the ultimate symbols of status and splendour. Highlights include an opal tiara, an Art Deco diamond-and-platinum halo tiara created in 1934, and the Garland Style Scroll tiara from 1902, famously worn at Queen Elizabeth’s coronation in 1953 — and by Rihanna in 2016 on an unforgettable W Magazine cover. A testament to Cartier’s enduring appeal, this final room will leave you lusting after a tiara … or just about any Cartier masterpiece. Because diamonds, after all, are a girl’s — and a boy’s — best friend.

The exhibition runs until 16 November 2025. Tickets start at £27 but sell out fast, so book in advance. For more information, visit vam.ac.uk