Grounded for life

I confess that I’m usually a little resistant to feature Rolex first after my week at Watches and Wonders Geneva when there are more interesting, avant-garde timepieces I’d prefer to write about. But this is also me being contentious in reaction to the first thing everyone asks: “What’s new from Rolex?” Rolex is creative, visionary, and revolutionary to the core despite its mainline “evolutionary” messaging focused on excellence through the incremental transformation of models over decades.

The Oyster case (1926) and the Perpetual Rotor (1931) may not sound like the most ground-breaking ideas today but, remember, such inventions were revolutionary at a time when the efficiency and accuracy of your watch could mean the difference between life and death or reaching the desired destination — and doing so on time. Then there are dependable, precise, and robust calibres such as the 3135, a genre-defining automatic workhorse launched in the time of quartz, reintroducing the magic for true watch enthusiasts. When Rolex innovates it also has the resources and know-how to shift into production at industrial scale.

Twenty novelties were presented by Rolex this year, among them a Cosmograph Daytona in yellow gold with spectacular turquoise and black dial, while the 18kt yellow-gold Perpetual 1908 was elevated to the next level of sophistication with a brand-new gold Settimo bracelet. The most significant, however, was the Land-Dweller: the first new model line from Rolex to cause a major tectonic stir at a fair since the launch of its Sky-Dweller 13 years ago.

The model name is brand new and, while it is evolutionary by design, the state-of-the-art technology behind its new Dynapulse escapement in the new automatic Calibre 7135 is likely to revolutionise the entire industry in terms of chronometry. While the Land-Dweller seems to be a late arrival to the category of contemporary luxury sports watches with integrated bracelets, its aesthetic draws inspiration from a 1969 gold Rolex Quartz (ref 5100) and 1974 steel and yellow-gold Datejust (ref 1630) with self-winding mechanical movement. This places its lineage among icons such as the Royal Oak and Nautilus.

The automatic Calibre 7135 is the first high-frequency (5Hz) movement for Rolex and is protected by 16 new patent applications. At its heart is the Dynapulse, an indirect impulse escapement made of silicon, which replaces its proprietary Swiss lever escapement for the first time. Eliminating the friction between escape-wheel teeth and the rubies of the pallets on a lever escapement, this new system instead connects a gear-train transmission wheel to the mainspring barrel and two silicon distribution wheels with teeth and blades on the same plane. An impulse rocker then maintains the oscillation of the balance. With the components interacting through a rolling motion, the need for lubrication is illuminated, with the result that the Dynapulse is more efficient, consuming about 30% less energy than a lever escapement. Even at 5Hz, the Calibre 7135 offers a 66-hour power reserve.

In colour theory, blue is calming and communicates trust and reliability. Whether intentional or coincidental, a full spectrum of blue dials sent emotive messages at the fair, adding a touch of tranquillity to our messy world. Among them, the shimmering ice-blue dial with honeycomb motif on the 36mm and 40mm 950 Platinum models was a winner, but the watches felt a bit too weighty on this land dweller’s wrist. In terms of sizing, an emerging sweet spot appears to be 40mm for many brands but, with the Land-Dweller wearing smaller on the wrist, my pick would be the 40mm Rolesor (Oystersteel with white-gold bezel) with a satin-finish snow-white dial (Reference 127334). With exceptional finishing and renowned Rolex quality throughout, another key feature is the distinctive bezel with exaggerated flutes, which also frame the transparent case back. Unique to the Land-Dweller, the new steel bracelet is a more planar, satin-brushed take on the Jubilee and the first with a Crownclasp.

During my presentation there was some discussion over the naming of this new design and what a “less obvious” alternative might have been to “Flat Jubilee”. At 9.7mm, the case is about 20% thinner than a Datejust or Explorer and, with those fluid lines uniting its unique case and bracelet, it rests very comfortably on the wrist. The dial layout is crisp, featuring luminescent material on the sleek hands, applied index hour markers and “open” numerals 6 and 9. The scratch-resistant sapphire has a Cyclops lens over the date window. The screw-down crown has a twin-lock double-waterproofness system contributing to the 100m water resistance of its Oyster case.

Rolex says the Land-Dweller is a watch “for those who are already designing tomorrow’s world” — perfectly aligned with the ethos of the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation (the owner of Rolex) and well-grounded individuals dedicated to social and environmental change for good here on planet Earth. Not for rocket men set on conquering other planets. 

The Land-Dweller is available in 36mm and 40mm Rolesor, Everose gold, and 950 Platinum models, with trapeze-cut diamond-set bezel options available on the Everose and platinum models. All watches have COSC and Superlative Chronometer certification. Priced from R267 000 at rolex.com or local retailers.

From the May edition of Wanted, 2025