Ahead of its time

Architect Louis Sullivan’s axiom “form follows function” has influenced designers for over a century. Focused on efficiency and functionality, this approach to design is, however, often lacking in soul. A more organic, holistic approach engages our emotions, balancing functionality with beauty and comfort: something that young Jack Heuer had in mind when he conceived the Monaco.

Our fascination with motor racing has led to some remarkable releases in the history of modern watchmaking, but the Monaco is both a cultural icon and symbolic of the manufacture’s pursuit of precision and avant-garde design.

While retaining its core design vocabulary, featuring elements such as the square case with curved flanks and rounded square sub-dials, it has evolved since its release in 1969 through numerous dial and movement updates, new materials, and special editions.

This year celebrates the 55th anniversary of the legendary timepiece and its Calibre 11 Chronomatic, one of the first automatic chronograph movements. The Calibre 11 was produced in collaboration with Breitling, Buren, and movement-maker Dubois-Dépraz under the code name Project 99 in the race to create the first automatic chronograph wristwatch.

Two other contenders achieved this milestone almost simultaneously: Zenith with its hi-beat El Primero and Seiko with the Calibre 6139, both with integrated movements. The Calibre 11 was distinguished by its micro-rotor and modular construction, which allowed for ease of maintenance and serviceability. The Monaco was also the first water-resistant, square watch featuring a chronograph.

The appointment of Carole Forestier-Kasapi in 2020 as director of haute horlogerie & movements strategy at TAG Heuer signalled the high-end watchmaking to come. With movement refinement and development taking time, it was only last year that we started to see the award-winning movement designer’s innovations appearing in TAG Heuer novelties. While Heuer split-second chronographs date back to their impressive 1/100th-of-a-second stopwatches from the 1920s and 1930s, under the visionary direction of Forestier-Kasapi the new calibre TH81-00 powers the brand’s first split-second chronograph wristwatch, making its debut at Watches & Wonders this year in the Monaco.

Developed in collaboration with movement specialists Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, the TH81-00 is an advanced high-beat movement with a frequency of 36 000vph (5Hz), allowing measurements of 1/10th of a second. Crafted from titanium with 365 meticulously engineered components, it is also one of the lightest automatic chronograph movements at 30g.

A split-second chronograph, also referred to as rattrapante in French, is a precision complication that allows for the measurement of multiple intervals within the same timing event, such as lap times in a race, without stopping the primary chronograph function.

With its 41mm case half titanium and half sapphire crystal, and a dial also crafted from sapphire, transparency plays a key role in revealing the exquisitely finished movement inside. There are two novelties, presented in either racy red or a blue model, in a nod to the colour code of the original Monaco. Case backs are wide open for an unobstructed view of the TH81-00. Presented on either red or blue calfskin straps embossed with a fabric pattern.

POA, tagheuer.com or TAG Heuer boutiques 021 421 8539, 011 784 7422.