How buying rubies and emeralds differs to buying diamonds

These "6 Cs" are as good a guide as there is to making an informed decision — and also a snappy way to remember the basic rules of the game. Let's take a closer look at each one:

Cut 

Like diamonds, coloured gemstones come in an array of different cuts from brilliant and baguette to princess and pear. The most popular cut for an emerald is it's namesake emerald cut, while the most sought-after rubies are oval and cushion cuts. 

That said, by far the most important rule of buying a gemstone is — quite literally — to choose the one you fall in love with, rather than opting for the one you think you should buy. This may be a less “perfect” jewel — and in fact, its little quirks may be the very thing that makes you fall for it.

Clarity and character

Speaking of quirks, it's important to note that, unlike diamonds, coloured gemstones are not flawless.

Inclusions — as they are called in the industry — are the little features that give such jewels their individual character. ensuring no two are the same. They're responsible for giving rubies' their signature “fire within” and form “gardens” (jardins) within emeralds. 

They're also proof that a gemstone is authentic; that it was carved from Mother Nature, and formed deep beneath the Earth’s surface millions of years ago — and so they should be celebrated. 

Colour

What is worth insisting on when shopping for a ruby or emerald is evenness of colour and a good saturation of colour throughout. This is typically associated with a higher value, higher quality gem (unless it came about as the result of colour enhancement).

A top tip is try to view the jewel in daylight, so you can clearly see its colour and be sure it's not being affected by artificial light.

Carat

The word “carat” comes from the carob seeds that ancient Middle Eastern jewellers used to compare the weight of gemstones based on the incorrect assumption that all carob seeds weighed the same. 

Thanks to the difference in density between gemstones, however, the carat weight of a specific cut varies by gem: an 8mm brilliant cut emerald weighs about 1.75 carats, while the same sized ruby comes in at about 2.5 carats.

Remember: carat is a unit of weight, not size.

Certification

Responsible sourcing, traceability and sustainability are hot topics worth considering when investing in precious stones.

For peace of mind, always buy from trusted jewellers or brands. They'll be able to supply you with plenty of information about the journey your ruby or emerald has travelled before reaching its final destination in a beautiful piece of jewellery.

It's also important to request a lab report — especially if a gemstone is of a significant size — from a certified gemmological laboratory. This is something all reputable labs will be happy to provide and will verify the jewel's origins and disclose any treatments it may have received.

If the emerald or ruby in the piece of jewellery you're purchasing originated from one of Gemfields' mines in Zambia and Mozambique, you can rest assured that it's been mined with integrity. 

The world leader is guided by the belief that mining coloured gemstones should have a positive impact for the country and community from which they originate.

Responsible sourcing for Gemfields means implementing industry-leading policies and practices across operations, transparency in its auction sales process, and playing an active role in projects to improve health, education and livelihoods of the communities around its mines, as well as in conservation efforts to protect Africa’s great wildlife and biodiversity.

For more information, visit Gemfields' website.

This article was paid for by Gemfields.