"Ah yes," he says, chortling after I insist he is. "Otherwise that would be corruption." He eats here often. "I had dinner here just last night with my daughter," he says. On two or three occasions, someone comes over to shake his hand.
"I am the Ukrainian ambassador to the UN," says one.
"Who?" says Kissinger. "Ukraine," the diplomat replies. "We think very highly of you." Kissinger’s face lights up.
"Ah Ukraine," he says. "I am a strong supporter."
Geopolitics weighs heavily on Kissinger. As the co-architect of the cold war rapprochement with China and détente with the Soviet Union, Kissinger now surveys a world in which China and Russia are both challenging the US world order, often in concert with each other.
But the doyen of cold war diplomacy is as interested in the future as he is in the past. This year Kissinger wrote a terrifying piece on artificial intelligence for The Atlantic Monthly, in which he compared humanity today to the Incas before the arrival of smallpox and the Spanish. He urged the creation of a presidential commission on AI. "If we do not start this effort soon, before long we shall discover that we started too late," he concluded.
This summer Kissinger is working from home on a book about great statesmen and women (there is a chapter on Margaret Thatcher). He has just finished a section on Nixon, the president whom he served — uniquely — both as secretary of state and national security adviser. It is 25,000 words long and Kissinger is toying whether to publish it separately as a short book. He worries it will backfire. "It might bring all the contestants out of their foxholes again," he says. Do you mean that it could provoke comparisons between Watergate and Trump’s Russia investigation, I ask. "That is my fear," he replies. Before I have a chance to follow up, Kissinger switches to Thatcher. "She was a magnificent partner," he says. "I am a believer in the special relationship because I think America needs a psychological balance and this is a natural one based on history — not just on contributions."
Our starters arrive. Kissinger has a plate of chicken liver pâté, which he consumes with gusto. He has tucked his napkin bib-style into his upper shirt. I want to talk about Trump. Kissinger is keen to stay on Britain. I ask him about Lord Carrington, the former British foreign secretary, who resigned in 1982 to carry responsibility for failing to stop Argentina’s invasion of the Falkland Islands, and who died, aged 99, this month. On the day of Carrington’s death, Boris Johnson, the most recent British foreign secretary, quit with very different motives. You could say the first resigned with honour and the second with dishonour.
"I loved Lord Carrington," says Kissinger with feeling. "I never went to England without seeing him." In all their years of friendship, Carrington did not once complain about having to resign, says Kissinger. "He said to me: ‘What is the point of assuming responsibility if you then whisper to your friends that you are not really responsible?’ I don’t think we have that quality any more because for that you need a tradition that you take for granted and we no longer can." Johnson certainly doesn’t embody it, I suggest. "I don’t think Carrington thought much of Johnson," Kissinger replies.
What did Kissinger make of the Helsinki summit? His answer is halting.