We grow to relish the rawness and remoteness that the Alps can sometimes lack. During the entire trip, we do not encounter a single other tourer. We grow used to the weather too; surrounded by open ocean, conditions can change dramatically several times a day.
Before our week draws to a close, one final distinction reveals itself. Back in Akureyri, we visit the municipal baths — a phrase that hardly does justice to this magnificent complex of geothermally heated pools. Attracting every part of the community, from mothers with infants and groups of teenagers to office workers and the elderly, it proves remarkably revitalising for tired skiers too. For the first time after any ski tour I can remember, I climb aboard the plane the next day without a hint of aching legs.
Membership of the Eagle Ski Club costs £25 a year; James Pickford’s trip cost IKr190,000 (£1,284). Owen Day’s next Troll trip is due to start April 29. Bergmenn Mountain Guides and Snoworks also offer ski touring trips in the area.
More ski touring
Tajikistan For those seeking something seriously off-piste, Silk Road Adventures is running a pioneering 10-day trip to the Zarafshan range in February. Expect first descents of 4,000m peaks. £3,400.
Italy For the more epicurean skier, Kaluma offers a five-night “ski safari” in the Dolomites, using lifts rather than leg-power to explore the area’s 12 interconnected resorts. Guests will enjoy gourmet meals and stay at a mix of luxury hotels and mountain refuges (with their luggage transferred for them). From €2,900.