It’s my favourite part of Camps Bay. Right in the corner at the northern end, on the cusp of becoming Glen Beach, that little nook that somehow remains a tiny bit secret. Here, Victoria Road leaves behind the curio sellers and pavement bars as it mulls heading uphill towards Clifton and Bantry Bay.
There was once a fabulous little Italian place here, Il Cappero, where the Sicilian owners introduced me to the joys of linguine ai ricci di mare. Fresh pasta tossed in sea-urchin roe, with little else but a scraping of lemon zest. Hell, it was good.
I rolled the memory of that ricci di mare around in my head the other day as I stood on Victoria Road gazing across at what now stands in place of “The Caper”.
Morea House is certainly a chic new addition to the Camps Bay strip. Although privately owned, this 90-room property falls under the Marriott umbrella and marks the brand’s first Autograph Collection hotel in Cape Town. In a neighbourhood better known for its high-energy beachfront, Morea House opens with a different calling card, pairing the unavoidable glamour of the location — all palm trees and sunsets — with a more considered design-led approach to seaside hospitality.
It’s only been open a few months, but it’s already drawing a crowd of travellers who like their sea views uninterrupted and their décor discreet, yet with something to say.
Perhaps that’s no surprise, as the look and feel of the hotel is the work of award-winning interior architect and designer Tristan du Plessis.
“The brief was to create a boutique hotel that felt more like a private coastal residence than a traditional hotel,” says Du Plessis, “with spaces that felt relaxed, timeless and connected to the landscape of Camps Bay.”
And there’s an immediate warmth and intimacy to the hotel. Reception is an inviting space off a lobby that feels more like a lounge, where a sculptural chandelier by ceramic artist Jan Ernst drapes from the ceiling and a side room offers wide couches and a covetable collection of Assouline and Taschen books for you to browse.
“The intention was for guests to walk in and immediately feel a sense of quiet escape, somewhere warm, understated and intimate, where luxury is expressed through atmosphere and materials rather than spectacle,” adds Du Plessis. “Natural materials are central to the language of the project … rather than strong decorative gestures, the focus was on texture, patina and subtle detailing that gives the space depth and authenticity.”
That approach is reflected in the material palette used throughout the hotel. Travertine and marble, limewashed surfaces, timber and linen are layered in a look that draws on the surrounding landscape without defaulting to a seaside pastiche. Instead of the bright blues and whites you might expect, soft sandy tones, pale woods, and warm neutrals reference the beach and ocean light, while deeper greens and elements of stone are a nod to the mountain backdrop.
There are rooms facing Table Mountain but, come on, you’re here for the sea view, of course. With wide picture windows a standard feature of sea-facing suites, “the views from the rooms through the glazing, nearly like a picture frame, are otherworldly,” says Du Plessis.
But tear away your gaze for a moment and cast an eye on the walls. Art is as central to the hotel as the sea, and Morea House has brought together a notable roster of local artists and makers, including Wonder Buhle, Chris Soal, Jeremy Rose, Kalki Ceramics, David Brits and Julia Pepler. Pepler’s work is particularly prominent, with signature rugs in the reception space along with “deconstructed art hangings” in most rooms.
But unless you’re in the gorgeous top-floor Signature suite — complete with a separate lounge and private sea-facing balcony — you’ll want to spend more of your daylight hours outside. Camps Bay beach is right across the road (beach bags and pre-stocked Field Bars available on request) and it’s just a few minutes’ drive to explore the best of the city’s Atlantic Seaboard.
If you’re staying in, the public spaces reinforce that residential feel, with a guests-only pool terrace featuring a lounge and bar that let you segue from laptop to loungers to sunset cocktails. The Wine Room, alongside, is a setting for private dining and tastings — when hunger hits, you’ll want to wander downstairs to Omri.
Here, the menu takes its cue from the owners’ Lebanese heritage, interpreted through local ingredients and flavours. The heart of the menu is the cold and hot mezze, which are best enjoyed as something of a shared feast. Think spicy lamb makanek or labneh with mint and olive oil, served with house-baked flatbreads. A rich selection of meats off the grill turns mezze into a full meal, with koftas, beef skewers and grilled seabass all tempting choices. Prices are what you’d expect to pay in Camps Bay, but the quality is excellent and the portions generous.
Yet Omri is also a Camps Bay restaurant that stands out from most others. Here, you shouldn’t expect to wander in off the beach wearing board shorts and plakkies, with your sandy Labrador on a lead. Omri is a place with polish, where the service is spot-on and the food approachable yet refined, and you’ll want to dress up a little to suit the setting.
There’s no denying the setting is the starting point here, but in a corner of the city often defined by glamour and spectacle, Morea House is measured, with a sense of luxury that whispers its strong sense of place. For Camps Bay, it’s like a breath of fresh sea air. Now, if only they’d start serving ricci di mare.
