The pathway traced the lush course of the river, with the morning sun burning through the slice of fog hanging over the water. As children cycled past excitedly on their way to school and rowers carved elegant wakes in the river, I had to remind myself that this bucolic beauty wasn’t some rural location but in Richmond — a short tube ride from central London.
Bingham Riverhouse boasts a highly desirable setting: a prime riverside location where the constant flow of the Thames provides a living canvas to admire from the rooms, restaurant, and gardens. Elegantly furnished rooms span the upper floors of the two joined Georgian houses, dating back to 1899. Originally owned by Katherine Bradley and Edith Cooper — poets who wrote under the pseudonym Michael Field — the house once served as a literary hub, attracting figures such as WB Yeats.
Over a decade later, the property changed hands, with Kenyan-born Ruth Trinder acquiring it and now run by her daughter Sama Trinder. The hotel showcases a blend of British heritage with touches of African flair, which is part of why I chose to visit. At the reception desk I’m given a warm howzit from South African chef Vanessa Marx — she’s effusive in a way that South Africans famously are, clearly as eager as I am to be among kin. Sitting in one of the hotel’s plush lounges she shares more of her background and I smile as the occasional accent slips give away her proud provenance.
From her mentorship under Peter Goffe-Wood, co-founding Cape Town’s Dear Me Food World, and an Eat Out Rising Star Award, to TV appearances and guest judging on Celebrity MasterChef South Africa, Vanessa has more than earned her current role as executive chef at this trendy London spot.
Back in 2019 Vanessa and her husband Mark were considering their life and future plans and decided to head to the UK on a recce trip, planning to stay six months to see if it was the right next step. A chance meeting led Vanessa to assume the role of event and F&B manager at a mill that doubled as a wedding venue. After her next season of working with Nomadic Dinners, a recruiter directed her attention to Bingham Riverhouse, where she’s spent the past four years.
The journey was not without its challenges. “It involved re-establishing my reputation and body of work — a challenge South Africans in the UK often face — and familiarising myself with local seasons and products. Then, of course, adapting to the British way of life.”
At her Riverhouse Restaurant, sustainability is a core principle, not just lip service, with a well-being approach to her menus that thoughtfully considers what’s good for producers and consumers alike. Vanessa calls it “feel-good food.” The menu updates four to six times annually and flipping it over in hand reveals a map detailing the origins of the ingredients — it’s both informative and inspiring.
Later that evening, I head into the dining room with a friend, both eager to journey through the menu. I’m hooked from the first plate, with Vanessa’s salted caramel butter dangerously addictive (yes, I asked if it’s sold at deception). The delights continued with Wimbledon rooftop-farmed mushrooms, Bierbrood made from regeneratively farmed flour, pork from Haye Farm and a chocolate dessert that’s drool-worthy—and sugar-free, making it a bit more guilt-free. Satisfied, it was thankfully a few steps back to the room, where a copper William and Holland bathtub awaited, offering a good soak.
Waking up to the sights and sounds of the River Thames, I strolled down to one of the perspex domes in the front garden. Seamlessly integrated into the hotel is Bhuti, a wellness initiative offering yoga, workshops, treatments, a members’ club, and more, which was a highlight. Meaning ‘wellbeing’ in Sanskrit, bhuti had me smiling again with its South African nuance. After a stretching vinyasa class, I returned to the drawing room for one last foodie fix: a chef-cooked breakfast with detox smoothies and maybe just one more serving of the caramel butter.
Quickfire Q&A with Vanessa Marx
What ingredients do you miss from South Africa?
South African game, fresh non-farmed fish and avos.
What are your rituals back home?
First, it’s always a cold Castle light at the airport. Then we braai almost every night. Shopping for spices at Atlas Trading Company in Cape Town.
Where do you enjoy eating out?
Ile de Pan in Knysna, Bramon wine estate in Plett. And anywhere that has oysters — I need them every day. At least two dozen.
Back in the UK, where do you eat on your day off?
In Richmond, The Albert’s Deli (owned by my husband — and where you can find our family’s South African wine). Luna de Luca for an Italian fix— best pizza I’ve ever had. In London, Little Kudu and Fallow.
Favourite UK holiday destination?
Stockbridge for fly-fishing, with a visit to Black Chalk Winery for their tempting local sharing boards. Then the Cotswolds never fails to impress.
