South Africa’s history has always been intertwined with the South Atlantic island of St Helena, but I had no idea how closely my own history was as well. A few weeks before going, I was discussing the trip with my family and was told that my great grandmother had come from there. We never dig into our family heritage due to our complicated and often undocumented history as “Coloured” people in South Africa.
What I learnt was that my mother’s grandmother was named Margaret. A nurse, she likely married a German World War 1 soldier, who had been sent to St Helena. They then moved to Colesberg in the Northern Cape to start a sheep farm. That’s all I know.
St Helena is one of the three constituent parts of British Overseas Territory, along with Ascension and Tristan da Cunha islands. It is considered one of the most remote places on Earth. For me, going felt like a pilgrimage. Known as Saints, its people are a mix of European, African and Asian heritage. Most of the Saints I met looked like me — same curl in the hair, same colouring — just not the same accent. A few had British accents from time spent in the UK; others had a soft island lilt. As the locals say, “We are made up of either settlers, sailors, soldiers or slaves.”
It’s not a large population (4,439 counted in 2021) and the island itself is small, just 122km². After a few days in the capital Jamestown, most faces — fellow tourists and locals — become familiar. Adding to the familiarity is the traditional Wednesday Fish Fry, when islanders and tourists gather at the wharf at sundown, sitting at white plastic tables and digging into whatever was caught that day. I ate eel for the first time served to me by “the Sanrays” — Sandra and Raymond Benjamin, who run the pop-up eatery. The eel was delicious, freshly fried in a herb batter. I highly recommend going as you get not only the best fried fish but also the chance to meet and chat with the islanders over a beer or two.
The history is the story
The island was named after the mother of Roman Emperor Constantine I the Great. It was “uninhabited” until its discovery by Portuguese explorers in 1502. For the next four centuries, it was an important stopover for ships travelling between Europe and Asia.
There is much to do on the island but to situate yourself, first visit the Museum of St Helena, which covers its maritime, military and social history; the Castle Gardens; and then go on the Napoleon Bonaparte tour. After he was defeated at the Battle of Waterloo, the French emperor was exiled here. He entered the town through the narrow arched gateway (which still exists today) on October 15 1815 at 7.20pm and never left, dying there aged 51 on May 5 1821. His remains were exhumed and returned to France in 1840, but you can still visit his former gravesite, in the Valley of the Tomb.
Also visit Longwood House, where he lived for a while and died. I was lucky to walk in Napoleon’s footsteps with the charming French consul, Michel Martineau. He has been preserving the island’s Napoleonic history and artefacts since 1987 and is a vast store of knowledge (email him at BEPSP@helanta.co.sh).
Another must is the Slave Story tour with Shelley Magellan-Wade from the St Helena National Trust. Between 1840 and 1872, more than 25,000 enslaved Africans were brought to St Helena from slaving voyages intercepted by the British Navy. About a third died and were buried in unmarked graves. When the airport, opened in 2017, was under construction, some of these graves were discovered. Now the 325 remains are reburied and properly memorialised at Rupert’s Valley.
Local tour guide Tracey Williams (elevatesthelena@gmail.com) offers general tours, including one on the Boer prisoners of war and on King Dinuzulu kaCetshwayo, who was captured by the British in 1890 and exiled on the island for seven years. The Boer prisoners began arriving in Jamestown in April 1900 and, over the next two years, about 6,000 were brought to St Helena. You can still see the desalination plant at Rupert’s Valley that was partly built by them, as well as the cemetery where 180 of them — those who died during their two-year stay — are buried.
Homes of the Saints
There is so much more to do (see below) but a major highlight for me was going to people’s houses, eating what they’d prepared for us and seeing how they live. At the Wranghams coffee plantation, Neil and Debbie Fantom showed us their gardens, 18th-century home and arabica plantation, then treated us to coffee and baked goodies in their kitchen. The food and feeling were so familiar and Debbie looked like a long-lost relative, so I felt like I was visiting my aunt’s house.
Quick note: St Helena is world-renowned for its coffee – 250g costs about £100 (about R2,250) on the international market, as the supply is limited and the arabica beans have been disease-free and free from crossbreeding since their introduction to the island in the 1700s. You can buy it more affordably on St Helena, but remember harvest season is October-February. When I was there, they were sold out.
At The Farm Lodge Country House, we had a lovely four-course dinner hosted by Stephen and Maureen Biggs (farm.lodge@helanta.co.sh). Cooking up a storm in the kitchen, Maureen reminded me of my mom. The place, however, is not how I grew up. It is a magnificent, 300-year-old former plantation house filled with paintings that look like they belong in a museum. There is a smell of freshly polished wood floors, and crystal chandeliers and antiques everywhere. It has five guest rooms available — could be an incredible experience.
Without even knowing the family connection, I had long been intrigued by this remote land. Before 2017, it would have taken five days sailing from Cape Town to get there. Now there is a once-weekly flight but it remains magical, mysterious and magisterial. The people are warm, friendly and proud of their way of life. The air is pristine. It’s safe, secure and beautiful. Having been, I now feel the need to both keep it to myself and tell everyone to put it on their bucket list.
More to do:
See the island: Though it’s small, a full-day tour of the island will show just how varied its microclimate and terrain are, with 502 endemic species. Local guide Aaron Legg and his wife Julie, offering 4×4 off-road trips, hikes and relaxed drives, have been showing visitors the island’s most untouched spots for more than 12 years. If they can’t answer your question (which is rare), they’ll know someone who can. Aaron’s Tours (aat@helanta.co.sh).
Meet Jonathan: Visit Plantation House, the official residence of the governor, and home to Jonathan the tortoise. With an estimated birth year of 1832, he is the world’s oldest known living land animal (192).
Explore the waters: On our trip with Enchanted Isle (Johnny.Herne@helanta.co.sh), we saw a pod of 400–600 dolphins swimming beside the boat. You can also dive with whale sharks or try sports fishing with Dive St Helena’s Craig and Keith Yon (dive@divesainthelena.com).
Go walking: Rockmount Walking Tours’ Tom Wortley (rockmountbookings@gmail.com) is an accredited walking guide offering hikes for all ability levels. The island’s 25 “Post Box Walks” are legendary — complete one and you earn a stamp. Birders, look out for the St Helena plover. This small wader, also known as the “wirebird” thanks to its skinny legs, occurs nowhere else on Earth.
Get weaving: Flax was once a major industry here (1906–1966), used for rope and string before plastic replaced it. You can learn traditional flax weaving with Abiwans Arts & Crafts’ Wanda Isaac (abiwans@helanta.co.sh). I made roses, a lily and a pot holder — my favourite souvenirs.
Know before you go:
Where to stay: Jamestown is not a buzzing hub of a city, so there is limited accommodation. It is best to book early, as well as flights and rental cars. I stayed at the central Mantis St Helena Hotel (st.helena@mantiscollection.com), which is set in the original East India Company’s officers’ barracks, built in 1774. My room had a view of the landmark Jacob’s Ladder, 699 steep steps that ascend 183m to Ladder Hill Fort (climb them at your peril).
Getting there: Airlink connects year-round from OR Tambo to St Helena Airport, with a weekly flight on Saturdays. There is a second flight from Cape Town between December and March (check dates on flyairlink.com). On average, it takes 6.5 hours to get there, with a stop in Walvis Bay to refuel. The return flight to Joburg is non-stop and takes four hours, 45 minutes.
Visas: SA passport holders do not need a visa, but all arrivals must pay a £20 fee at the airport in cash (GBP, USD, EUR and ZAR are accepted). Children under 12 are exempt. You will also need proof of travel insurance, which is mandatory.
Money: The St Helena pound is the official currency, equivalent to the British pound. Both can be used on the island. Make sure you have pounds before you go as there are no ATMs and few local businesses can process international debit/credit cards.
Good to know: On St Helena, everyone knows everyone. If someone stares at you, they’re simply wondering who you are and waiting for you to say hello!
• Platt was a guest of St Helena Tourism
This article was first published in TimesLive.
