Stellenbosch pulses with the vibrancy of a student town where bookshops, cafés, restaurants and galleries nestle amid historical architecture. The town’s Cape Dutch and Georgian buildings exude an old-world charm, recalling a rich and layered past.
A walk led by Stellenbosch on Foot tour guide Johan Nepgen offers a glimpse into South Africa’s second-oldest town — often referred to as “Eikestad”, an Afrikaans word meaning “town of oaks”, due to the many oak trees that line the streets.
Founded in 1679 by Simon van der Stel, the governor of the Cape colony, who named it after himself, it had developed into an independent local authority by 1682 and by 1685 had become the seat of a magistrate, with jurisdiction over an area of about 25,000km².
The town lies in a fertile valley on the Eerste River (the first river Van der Stel came across in his journey there) and its early population was diverse: European settlers (mainly Dutch, French and German), enslaved people, free black people, and indigenous Khoi and San people.
A fire in 1710 destroyed much of the town, but Stellenbosch rebuilt and preserved many of its Cape Dutch architectural features. From the late 1600s, education became an important pillar of the town, with a school established in 1683. In 1859 the seminary that laid the groundwork for Victoria College (the alma mater of prime ministers Jan Smuts and DF Malan) came into being and, in 1918, Stellenbosch University (alma mater of Hendrik Verwoerd). Today the student population of about 33,000 is more diverse.
On the walking tour, Nepgen takes our group to Dorp Street’s De Akker, which claims to be South Africa’s second-oldest pub, dating from between 1780 and 1813, and the inspiration for the first nonracial rugby team in a town famous for the game.
Dorp Street, which has the highest number of restored historical buildings and national monuments, has its roots in the late 1600s and is also the address for Eendracht Hotel & Apartments, a member of Cape Country Routes and a national monument as one of the oldest surviving homes in South Africa.
With its high ceilings, thick walls and period finishes, it feels as if you’re stepping into an old Stellenbosch home. The guesthouse has 13 rooms, including a family room, and a restaurant—Senobia’s—for home-style breakfast, lunch and dinner. As much as it has retained its age-old charm, it has kept pace with modern living, offering charging facilities for electric vehicles.
Eendracht was once a hostel for “tokkeloks” — those studying theology to become dominees. The name is derived from the Afrikaans teologie (theology) and Greek tokos (birth) and logos (discourse) and is now part of Stellenbosch slang. Eendracht also preserves old Bibles and opium pipes.
If there were dope smokers among the early students, it wasn’t the only cloud over the town’s apparently benign ambience. Stellenbosch has its dark side too, like any other place in South Africa.
A violent race riot in July 1940 — a time of bitter political tension in a South Africa divided over the country’s entry into World War 2 — remains a stain on Stellenbosch history. “White young rabble”, according to one account, attacked coloured people over an incident of queue-jumping at a café and police reinforcements were called in to quell “The Battle of Andringa Street”. The thoroughfare runs from Jan Celliers Street (named for the poet and professor at the university between 1919 and 1929) to Dorp Street.
Racial tensions have emerged again recently, with a white student expelled for urinating on the belongings of a black roommate, and toxic initiation practices at Wilgenhof men’s residence coming into the open.
But there is also a sense of civic pride in a town attempting to abandon apartheid-era spatial planning and looking to engage in community collaboration. It’s a difficult combination of old-school affluence and new-era confidence and ambition.
Then there is the enduring nostalgia of the town, symbolised by Oom Samie se Winkel, which was founded in 1904 as a general dealer. With its creaky wooden floors and vintage décor, the store has a quirky collection of goods from biltong and books to souvenirs and novelties.
The university buildings (the famous Matieland) are found all over the town, and its underground library (the only one in the southern hemisphere) and botanical garden, established in 1922 and the oldest university garden of its kind in South Africa, are especially intriguing.
The Village Museum, also known as the Stellenbosch Museum, is where its history comes alive. Four restored homes from the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries offer insight into the architectural styles and daily life from those times, with guides dressed in period attire.
From here, it’s an easy walk through Ryneveld, Dorp, Plein and Church streets — where cafés, wine bars and a surprising number of ice cream shops line the pavements; there are about 60 restaurants within walking distance. The local art and design scene is equally accessible.
Lunch at De Warenmarkt delivers on local flavour, with small sharing plates and a menu that includes oxtail and Karoo venison. The space draws on the original Cape Dutch idea of a bustling market. Dinner at The Wine Glass is a more sophisticated affair with a selection of more than 130 wines — a relaxing end to a strenuous day’s walking.
Once known for its hearty staples such as bobotie, chicken pie and waterblommetjiebredie, Stellenbosch has evolved into one of South Africa’s culinary capitals.
Among its establishments are De Volkskombuis, where Dr Danie Craven was a regular, and which is known for its tamatiebredie and Boland bobotie, and Decameron, a family-run Italian restaurant since 1987.
This year 12 of the town’s restaurants won Eat Out Awards, which acknowledge excellent establishments, chefs and culinary experiences.
Dusk earned three stars. Clara’s Barn, Mertia, Rust en Vrede and The Jordan Restaurant were each awarded two. One star went to Eike, Hoseki, Post & Pepper, Rykaart’s, Spek & Bone, The Table at De Meye and Vuur Goose Island.
Just seven months after its opening, Mill St Bistro, run by Michelin-starred chef Phil Carmichael, was awarded Bistro of the Year at the 2025 Luxe Restaurant Awards. However, it has now closed, with Carmichael planning to open a restaurant on a wine farm.
The culinary culture is not just for locals, says Daniel Kriel, chair of Taste Stellenbosch, and has attracted chefs from all over the world.
This article was first published in the Financial Mail.
