Lisbon has long been celebrated for its timeless, melancholic charm and effortless warmth, yet the city has gone through something of a transformation with waves of development and a steady influx of new residents.
It tends to be more affordable than other European capitals (though housing prices have skyrocketed), attracting digital nomads and foreign residents — an influence visible in the cranes scattered across the skyline.
Despite modern growth, Lisbon retains its old-world charm. Azulejos (ornate tiles) adorn facades, historic coffee shops hum with generations of stories, cobbled streets wind past hills and viewpoints and trams clatter along narrow lanes, all amidst a lively street live.
Over a few days, we explore several neighbourhoods. Our first stop is Chiado, a cultural and shopping hub brimming with cafes, bookstores and theatre, which we head to on the famous Tram 28, which travels through some of the most historic areas of the city. The wide walkways, the bustling atmosphere and the light buildings are enticing. Belle Epoque cafes, boutiques and galleries inhabit restored 18th and 19th century buildings, earning Chiado comparisons to Paris’s Saint-Germain-des Pres.
We discover Livraria Bertrand, the world’s oldest operating bookshop, its multiple rooms including a dedicated English section. Nearby, A Brasileiro beckons with a drink and pasteis de nata — one of Lisbon’s many historical cafes that remain a drawcard with its famed Art Nouveau interior.
Chiado and the wider city are also a aesthete’s haven. There’s a surprisingly large number of cosmetic shops in this area and some sell the usual multinational brands, but there are also local stand-outs like Claus Porto, over 130 years old, best known for its luxury soaps and fragrances and found here in a refurbished historic pharmacy. Benamor, established in 1925, specialises in natural beauty products inspired by traditional recipes, and a store is nearby in Principe Real.
At the other end of the spectrum, sports and soccer stores thrive, reflecting the nation’s passion for football and its most famous star, Cristiano Ronaldo. My teenager delights in browsing jerseys and photographing a signed soccer ball at one of the stores.
A short stroll from Chiado takes us to Rua dos Correeiros and Rua Augusta, where visitors spill onto sunlit streets lined with restaurants, and street musicians add to the mood. Confeitaria Nacional, one of Lisbon’s oldest and most famed pastry shops and for nearly two centuries the official royal confectioner, bustles with almost no space to move.
Artisinal and gourmet sardine shops are worth popping into, with beautifully packaged tins paying homage to Portugal’s rich culinary traditions, as seafood, especially sardines, have been a staple of the Portuguese diet for centuries. Some of the packaging is nostalgic, others retro. Near Rossio Square is Mundo Fantástico da Sardinha Portuguesa and another we discovered along the way was the fantastic world of the Portuguese sardine.
The Alfama district is the city’s oldest district and one of the most appealing, between São Jorge Castle and the Tagus River. Its cobbled streets on inclines exude medieval charm, with intimate venues hosting soulful Fado nights. Here, older women sitting in nooks and crannies offer ginjinha — a traditional Portuguese liqueur made from sour cherries and infused in alcohol with sugar and cinnamon served in thumbnail chocolate cups for €1.50.
Nearby Bairro Alto comes alive at night with bars and restaurants, while Avenue da Liberdade is a boulevard moulded on the Champs Elysée, and teems with street vendors and fleamarket-style stalls. Yet, it’s Principe Real which is more enticing with independent and elegant streets which has more of a relaxed charm and bohemian appeal.
Day trips are part of the Lisbon experience. Sintra, with its palaces and aristocratic history, is one of the most popular visits. We visit Cascais which rained for the most of the day so it was hard to comprehend the full appeal of the place. The thriving market for fresh produce and flowers attracts locals and visitors, and we visit the famed Santini Ice Cream, delighting in fig and apple flavours.
Belem is another must-visit, home to Unesco-listed Jerónimos Monastery and Belem Tower (currently under restoration and only due to open again next year). The main road is busy with overpriced restaurants but particularly buzzy is the original Pasteis de Belem — considered the birthplace of pasteis de nata) packed with visitors and tourists and is said to sell 20,000 custard tarts a day during peak season.
The teenager wants a modern shopping experience, so we head to Colombo Shopping centre. One of Portugal’s largest malls with more than 340 stores, its Age of Discovery-inspired design features open spaces and vaulted ceilings. A different retail experience is the Time Out Market at Cais do Sodre, where traditional market charm meets modern culinary creativity. It was the first Time Out Market (there are now seven around the world with another eight planned) and feels similar to the one in Cape Town with various stalls, though Lisbon’s has a strong emphasis on Portuguese specialities.
Transport is a big win in the city. The metro, with four colour-coded lines, is straightforward, while buses, trains, tuk-tuks and surprisingly affordable Ubers and Bolts navigate the city. We were surprised at the level of cleanliness in the cars we drove in, most are energy efficient (we drove in our first Teslas). It’s useful to carry some cash for buses, as cards aren’t universally accepted.
Where to stay:
The Verse, opened last December, offers 15 stylish apartments in a historical building on Rua de São Bento, a charming street lined with niche shops and cafes. Contemporary décor meets historic charm, with nearby coffee shops like Oh Sweet for breakfasts or coffees. The hotel doesn’t offer food given that there are so many coffee shops and stores nearby. The famous tram 28 stops right outside — busy, yet essential for local life. Dinner at Davvero, an Italian restaurant in another neighbourhood rounds off the day in classic style.
Martinhal Orient Lisbon in Parque das Nações, a modern district developed post-1998 World Expo, impresses with tech-savvy rooms and indoor and outdoor pools. The group offers an inviting mix of premium offerings for both parents and children (kids clubs, a trampoline as well as washing machines and kitchens in the suites). The Lisbon Oceanarium is nearby. Dinner at The Terrace offers tasty fare and lovely service.
The Lumen Hotel has a popular rooftop pool and bar with sweeping views. Its “Lisbon Light Show,” projective visuals and music that narrate the city’s history, lasts under 10 minutes yet leaves a lasting impression — a good blend of modern spectacle and cultural storytelling.
