Ericeira may be less familiar to South Africans than coastal hotspots such as Porto or Cascais – and not as busy as the Algarve – but this Atlantic fishing town charms with its laid-back vibe and thriving surf culture.
Once a modest fishing village, Ericeira has evolved into a cosmopolitan surf-and-lifestyle-destination but retains the old village at its core. Foreigners are snapping up properties, digital nomads linger for extended stays and surfers flock for world-class waves. Drive a little over an hour north and you’ll reach Nazaré, famed for its enormous surf.
As Europe’s first World Surfing Reserve, Ericeira’s wears this identity proudly — from the many surf shops to upscale hotels emphasizing wellness, understated luxury, and natural textures. Its rising profile was further cemented in 2023 when the World Tourism recognised it as “Best Tourism Village”.
During our visit, my teenage son took a surf lesson with Hugo at the Tiago Pires Surf School, based at Boardriders on Praia do Matadouro, next to the skatepark. Even non-surfers like me found the experience inviting — the staff are warm, the retail offerings stylish and the lessons genuinely fun. Watching him tackle his first waves, the high-fives and encouragement from fellow surfers were a highlight.
Hugo also shared stories of Ericeira’s rapid expansion: his grandmother once lived on the outskirts of village, and today, the same home sits at the heart of the town.
Less than an hour from Lisbon, Ericeira encourages slowing down rather than rushing from sight to sight, though outdoor activities abound. And it’s part of the “Silver Coast” — so named for how the sunlight dances across the Atlantic.
The historic centre, dating back to the 13th century, delights with cobbled streets, whitewashed buildings and a selection of restaurants, bars and boutique shops some of which sell handmade jewellery and eco-conscious clothing. It’s refreshingly free of large chains. A good starting point is Praca do Jogo da Bola, near Praca da Republica, with its tree-lined streets.
Our first stay was at Immerso Hotel, a light-filled, open-plan space where check-in, dining and lounging blend seamlessly. The hotel is family-owned — their first hotel, inspired by family weekends in Ericeira. The 37 rooms feature natural textures – rope, cork, linen, stone — juxtaposed with raw and polished concrete. The staff is particularly amiable and helpful.
Sustainability is central, with locally crafted wooden furnishings. The pool deck bears the sign: “Slow is the new flow,” capturing the hotel’s relaxed luxury ethos. The spa offers easy access to a sauna and steam room, while surf lessons at Tiago Pires Surf School can be arranged directly.
The hotel’s all-day Emme restaurant extends to a balcony, serving fresh, seasonal fare from its kitchen gardens. Located in the zona saloia, a region rich in ancient traditions, dishes highlight local flavours from requeijão with figs and wine reduction, and dinner heads to cured fish with sweet potato and Mafra lemon, followed by tender steak and lamb chops. Dessert, crème a crocante de limao, is a frozen twist on the classic Portuguese sweet rice pudding, finished with puffed rice and lemon crunch.
Next, we visited Aethos Hotel, which opened in 2022 as the brand’s first property in Portugal. Perched on a cliff above Praia da Calada, it exudes earthy warmth and an emphasis on well-being. Yoga classes, meditation spaces, a spa with a hammam, hot-slab, treatment rooms and a heated saltwater pool are all central to the experience.
The design balances contemporary luxury with rustic charm, drawing inspiration from local cliffs, dunes and beaches. Spacious windows frame the Atlantic, while creamy stone, light wood, carved furniture and cozy textures create a restful, refined environment.
The hotel has a sun-soaked, Ibiza-esque vibe, enhanced by music flowing through communal areas. Carefully placed boucle chairs and coffee table books provide inviting nooks for relaxation. The hotel is isolated but guests don’t look perturbed as they soak up the sun, as if they have no plans to go anywhere. Rooms are calming with muted tones.
The restaurant ONDA focuses on seafood, seasonal ingredients and sustainability. Dinner begins with charcoal roasted leeks, red onion, roasted vegetables with miso, followed by Atlantic seabass with smoked fennel in a white wine and butter sauce. For simpler tastes, a well-executed burger and plain ice cream delighted the teen.
Nearby beaches, including Praia da Calada, and famous breaks such as Ribeira d’Ilhas and Coxos are just 10 minutes away. While a car helps with exploration, Ubers are readily available. Both hotels offer e-bikes, perfect for cruising the hotel premises and environs. And breakfasts at the two hotels were top-tier.
For many visitors, Ericeira is about wandering the old town, absorbing the scenery and heading to the beach. Its name comes from ourico, the Portuguese word for both sea urchins and hedgehogs, with small artistic renditions of these for sale around town and hotels.
Ericeira isn’t about museums or historical monuments. It’s a place to kick off your shoes, slow down and leave a little less prickly than when you arrived.
