If the devil, as they say, is in the detail, then that horned scoundrel is surely perched on the Banhoek Pass above Stellenbosch, at an estate long famous for raising the bar in Winelands luxury.
Since opening in 2009, Delaire Graff Estate — the passion project of billionaire English diamantaire Laurence Graff OBE — has become the go-to destination for well-heeled travellers. The art-filled “Lodges” (no mere suites, these) of the boutique hotel are a fever dream of art, cuisine and discreet hospitality ... all with jaw-dropping Winelands views out front.
And after a floor-to-ceiling renovation of the Lodges in 2023, this year it was the turn of the public spaces. Following a lengthy closure, the Winery building has reopened to visitors, with a new look courtesy of London’s David Collins Studio, which has delivered the creative energy behind the estate’s aesthetic since opening.
“Delaire Graff Estate is one of my favourite places to visit,” says Simon Rawlings, chief creative officer at David Collins Studio. “Having the privilege of being able to return to a project, and update it, refine it, make better what’s already perfect is such a joy. The new winery building features enhanced experiences through textural timbers, bold colours, contemporary art and gorgeous lighting.”
Just weeks after reopening — before the summer season truly hits — the estate was already abuzz on my visit last week.
At first glance, it feels as if nothing much has changed. But, as ever, it’s all in the details. Look closely and you’ll discover a subtle evolution of the public spaces that offer a taste of the Delaire Graff lifestyle, even if you can’t afford to stay the night.
Central to the reinvention is a dedication to organic materials, artisanal technique and craftsmanship, with a firm focus on African origins in step with the extensive art collection on display throughout the estate.
Stepping into the Wine Lounge, where tutored tastings of the wines by Morné Vrey can be tailored across the ranges or paired with a menu of sharing platters. Here, the transformation is told in the dramatic fireplace installation, framed by Sahara Noir marble quarried in Tunisia and graced with artworks above. Look out for the “pop surrealist” work by Kenny Scharf arriving soon.
That same marble defines the counters, while discreet refreshes come in the purple leather chairs — all hand-stitched, of course — and linen curtains, the material sourced from French house Lelièvre and New York’s Samuel & Sons. And look down at the striking beadwork inlays in the Wine Lounge coffee tables, handcrafted over months by a Maasai artisan.
As you saunter up towards the restaurant — the charming “peach pip” floor remains in the entrance — do take a moment to admire The Chinese Girl and The Balinese Girl by Vladimir Tretchikoff on display in the lobby. But you’ll also clock how marble becomes a thread in the latest reinvention. It’s a globetrotting showcase of metamorphic limestone as an architectural motif. Turkish Sofitel graces the bathrooms. Luci d’Oro from India is striking on the bar in the Delaire Graff Restaurant, while Spanish Marfil and Brazilian Breccia Imperiale set the tone in the entranceway to the refreshed restaurant.
Once again, the restaurant feels reinvented yet familiar. The striking serpentine banquettes remain, curving gracefully through the space in a sweep of rich orange leather — hand-stitched and beautifully detailed. The fireplace — clad in Luci d’Oro marble and panelled in stained French oak — is a focal point, neatly balanced by the rebuilt bar counter. Inside tip? The best table is a two-top hidden in the corner, but offering the best views of the space, where bespoke furniture in flame-orange leather with subtle riempie panelling weaves a gentle South African thread into the look and feel.
And perhaps the same can be said for the new menu from head chef Clinton Jacobs, who, in step with the remodelling, has brought a fresh culinary approach to the Delaire Graff Restaurant.
“With the refurb we're moving into a new identity around the concept of ‘finer’ dining,” says Jacobs. “It's about the comfort of bistro-chic, but with a little of the art of fine dining. And then, of course, ingredients are a huge focus for us, and we really try to support small farmers and producers, working with people like Meuse and Lowerland.”
While evenings bring a bespoke fine-dining tasting menu option, at lunchtime — when those Simonsberg views are on full display from tables on the terrace — Jacobs offers a compact à la carte menu where modern Mediterranean cuisine is infused with local flavours and ingredients. Mussels arrive pickled, in a bowl redolent with Cape Malay spices. A Tuscan prawn salad is enlivened by perfectly cooked heerenbone. Samphire is foraged from local shores, while herbs and seasonal vegetables come from the estate’s own gardens.
On the plate, those finer details so easily missed come together into a single unforgettable experience. Much the same as the refreshed estate itself. Delaire Graff’s reinvention is about polish rather than reinvention, resulting in a Winelands destination that feels ripe for rediscovery, and yet beautifully familiar.
