Whether it’s in a chat at the office water cooler or being splashed across your Instagram feed, Greece seems to be this year’s hottest destination for South African travellers.
From sun-kissed beaches on Skiathos to sail away adventures off Kefalonia, South Africans are flocking to this (relatively) affordable corner of Europe.
And while it’s the beaches that will inspire no end of office envy, Athens is the gateway to the Greek islands for most travellers. Though the Greek capital was once somewhere you hustled through as fast as you could drag a suitcase over the cobbled streets, today the city is buzzing with creative energy worth tapping into. Here’s how to avoid the tourist throngs of the Plaka to discover a more authentic side to the city.
See the sights
But first, yes: you have to tick off the big-ticket items. An easy way to meander your way from the Temple of Zeus to the Ancient Agora and beyond is the bright-red city sightseeing bus, which offers a choice of lines extending all the way to the coast. And, of course, it stops at the Acropolis. Top tip? Buy your timed ticket for the first morning slot to avoid both the heat and the inevitable crowds.
If you’re passionate about history, the airy Acropolis Museum is worth the ticket price. I also loved the striking Panathenaic Stadium. First constructed in the fourth century BCE, and restored for the first modern Olympics in 1896, it is the world’s only stadium built entirely of marble and remains the spiritual home of the Olympics. From the stadium, wander the shady paths through the National Gardens. If you’re in the mood for souvenir shopping, crowds of tourists and overpriced restaurant menus in four languages, then the ever-popular Plaka is steps away.
Dining out
But, rather don’t. Athens’ culinary landscape is filled with rand-friendly gems worth seeking out. Mirlo, tucked away in Koulouri Square, is the latest street-food outing from restaurateur Andreas Kiltsiksis. There’s a tiny counter, outdoor tables and a menu of kebabs reinvented as an art form. Don’t miss the yiaourtlou kebab of aged mutton served with kefir yoghurt. There’s also a concise but compelling list of Greek wines.
A little further out, Athos showcases Greek country flavours and wood-fired cooking in a decidedly contemporary space. Small plates flow effortlessly out from the open kitchen, where chef Dimitris Chatzivasileiou shines a new lens on local cuisine.
Green space
Athens is big, busy and overwhelming, so when the city starts to hum a little too loudly, seek out the capital’s green spaces. For the best views of the Acropolis, climb nearby Philopappos Hill, where shady walking trails and ancient ruins offer respite from the crowds. Arguably the best views of the city are found on Lycabettus Hill. You can take the funicular to the summit, but if it’s not too hot, rather wander up along the pine-shaded paths. At the top you’ll find the whitewashed church of Agios Georgios and a charming cafe. Time your visit for sunset to watch the sun set behind the Parthenon.
Equally worth discovering is Pedion tou Areos, one of Athens’s most extensive public parks. Sprawling across more than 27 hectares, this semiwild expanse offers shaded paths, fountains, playgrounds and a historic open-air theatre. In the summer look for public art exhibitions too.
Explore Kypseli
Just north of Pedion tou Areos, you’ll find Kypseli; an emerging neighbourhood where traditional Athenian elegance combines with a creative revival. Once home to artists and aristocrats, the area fell into decline before being rediscovered by young creatives priced out of fashionable Kolonaki. Today, you’ll walk past restored Bauhaus apartment blocks, galleries concealed behind unmarked doors, and immerse yourself in a burgeoning cafe culture.
Fokionos Negri is the leafy pedestrian spine of the neighbourhood, and a fine place to soak up local life in bars and tavernas. Stop for drinks at Kinonó — a bar-gallery mash-up — while the recently revived Kypseli Municipal Market plays host to artist studios, a design-orientated bookshop, and a rotating calendar of exhibitions and food events. Sundays are best, when the Market comes alive with locals. Hungry? Book a table at The Bakalogatos for small plates focused on regional produce.
South African art on display
While you’re here, take time to visit The Museum of Cycladic Art, which is hosting “Marlene Dumas: Cycladic Blues” until November 2 2025. In this rare solo museum exhibition — held in the museum’s neoclassical Stathatos Mansion — dozens of paintings and works on paper by this SA-born artist are displayed alongside ancient Cycladic and Hellenistic artefacts from the permanent collection.
Bohemian charm in Exarcheia
To the south of Pedion tou Areos is the Bohemian suburb of Exarcheia, as famous for its anti-establishment graffiti as its stately Museum of Archaeology. Start with a short walk up Strefi Hill to get your bearings, then head out to explore. In an area long known as a creative hub — and for its student protests — recent gentrification has made it a space for Athens’ young creative economy. Try Panellinion for a traditional kafenion coffee house experience popular with chess-playing locals, The Black Salami for handcrafted breads, and the Saturday morning farmers market on Kallidromiou Street for local colour.
End the day at 10 Urban, one of the coolest rooftop bars in Athens, perched atop the Radisson Blu Park Hotel. Expect DJs on the decks on the weekends, and superb Acropolis views from the bistro-style eatery. The hotel’s array of contemporary rooms and suites — the best with glorious park views — also make this the ideal base for exploring the city, immersed in the vibrant life of Athens’ outer suburbs, with Victoria Metro station just a few minutes’ walk away to whisk you into the centre when you need it.
