City guide: Oslo in 24 hours

Whether it’s thanks to Scandi-noir television or New Nordic cuisine, the capital cities of Scandinavia have never been hotter. Although the exchange rate might make you weep just a little, the urban elegance of Oslo makes Norway’s largest city well worth a stopover. If you’re passing through en route to the fjords, here’s how to make the most of 24 hours in the city.

Get into town

Oslo’s Gardermoen Airport is located far from the city centre, and with a morning flight the next day, it pays to stay close to the airport. Drop your bags at the hotel (more on that later) and head into town. While the airport is 50km away from downtown Oslo, there’s no shortage of transport. First tip: skip the expensive Flytoget express train, which charges NOK252 per ticket (R455). Local trains, which take just a few minutes longer, leave just as often and cost half the price (R232). Ticket machines for both services are in the arrivals hall. 

First, coffee

Twenty-three minutes after leaving the airport, you should find yourself at Oslo’s Sentralstasjon.

Now you could settle for one of the forgettable coffee bars in the station, but instead, stretch your legs with a 10-minute walk to Fuglen Coffee Roasters, which has been around since the 1960s. The cafe in its current form blends vintage charm with Scandi-chic, and that extends to the coffee as well. Lightly roasted to highlight acidity and floral notes, it’s arguably the best flat white in the city. 

To the harbour

Next, take a leisurely stroll through Sentrum, Oslo’s compact and delightfully walkable downtown. Aim for the pedestrianised Karl Johans Gate, which will guide you just about to the harbour and the magnificent Oslo Opera House.

The work of local architectural firm Snøhetta, the combination of wood, glass and Carrara marble creates a remarkable city icon that serves both as an arts hub and an open public space. Here, angular white roofs slope dramatically into the Oslofjord, with pathways and staircases inviting the public to scramble to the rooftop for fantastic views of the city. Look out for Monica Bonvicini’s sculpture She Lies, anchored in the waters just offshore. And even if you’re not attending a performance, step inside: the interiors are quietly spectacular, featuring sweeping shapes of oak and glass.

How about a dip?

If you’re visiting in summer and want an authentic local experience, pack your cozzie. The Bjørvika waterfront area is lined with public beaches and swimming pontoons, so plan ahead to join the locals for a dip in the sparkling fjord. For a truly Nordic outing, book in advance with KOK Oslo, which operates a pair of floating saunas close to the opera house. Moored along the harbour but also available for short cruises into the fjord, KOK Oslo offers both private and shared sauna experiences, allowing you to work up a sweat in between a bracing dip in the icy fjord.

Grab a bite

By now, you’ll have worked up a hunger, and Oslo is home to a fairly vibrant food scene. However, given the exchange rate, you’ll want to keep things simple, so head for one of the city’s buzzing food halls. 

Back in the centre, Oslo Street Food is an architectural gem that has transformed a century-old swimming bath into a chic foodie destination featuring more than a dozen food stands. Alternatively, stay close to the sea. Situated in an old warehouse on the quayside, Vippa is just a short walk from KOK and offers a multicultural, laid-back food hall experience with 11 kitchens. Don’t miss Aleppo Bahebek, which supports Oslo’s Syrian migrant community. Aside from its tasty plates, Vippa is particularly inviting in summer when tables spill out onto the quayside, providing lovely sea views. 

A touch of history

Lunch at Vippa means you are in the right part of town to explore the Akershus Fortress and gardens. In a city filled with modern art and gleaming architecture, this 13th-century corner of the capital speaks to the long history of Oslo. Through the centuries, Akershus has served both as a royal residence and a defensive fortress. While guided tours are offered on weekends, the peaceful gardens and original walls provide fantastic views across the fjord. 

Dinner on the waterfront

The area around the National Museum, Aker Brygge, is a model of waterside urban renewal that’s home to a clutch of wonderful restaurants and cafes overlooking the fjords. For authentic cooking that won’t (entirely) blow your budget, Rorbua offers a menu of traditional Norwegian dishes: everything from bacalao and reindeer steak to cod tongues and whale steak. 

Get some sleep

I don’t trust public transport and early departures, so an airport hotel is ideal for short visits. The Radisson Blu Hotel at Gardermoen provides a stylishly convenient option. As it is directly connected to the terminal, you can reach check-in from your room in minutes. The hotel features soundproofed rooms and fast, free Wi-Fi. There’s a 24-hour gym and sauna if you’re shaking off jet lag, or you can head to 26 North for Nordic-inspired comfort food before your flight. It may not be a destination hotel, but with modern interiors, soundproofed rooms and unbeatable convenience, it ticks all the right boxes.