City Guide: Crazy, colourful Antananarivo

Set amid Madagascar’s central highlands, and for centuries the royal seat of the world’s fourth-largest island, Antananarivo — for the locals, simply “Tana” — offers a compelling blend of history and colourful creativity. While the cobbled streets and houses roofed in terracotta speak to the colonial past, out on the streets, there’s a buzz that is definably Malagasy. Whether you’re passing through en route to the islands or stopping in the city for a few days, here’s how to make the most of Antananarivo.

STAY

First things first: drop your bags, and the Radisson Blu Antananarivo Waterfront is the smartest address in town. Located 30 minutes’ drive from the airport, and conveniently close to high-rise towers and office parks, it’s ideal for corporate travel. Over the diverse buffet breakfast, expect to rub elbows with a bustle of business travellers from across the globe. However, it’s equally a fine destination for leisure travellers. It’s just a few kilometres to many of the city’s key sights (but allow extra time for Tana’s crazy rush-hour traffic), and the rooftop pool serves up sun loungers in an eyrie looking out across the city. Of the 168 rooms and suites — from standard to presidential — the Superior Rooms overlooking the Waterfront are the goldilocks option for space and comfort. Need to stretch your legs? A jog through Tana is an adventure in itself; or opt for the well-equipped gym on the eighth floor.

SHOP

Set close to the bustling public market, Akāny Concept Store is a collective of 22 female-led Malagasy brands that showcase the depth of design talent in the city. It’s a small boutique packed with soul, showcasing a range of products from fashion and jewellery to homeware. Notable labels include Denage’s contemporary clothing, Seconde Main’s upcycled apparel — fast gaining traction in Europe — and Pok Pok’s raffia pieces influenced by traditional headdresses, fusing Malagasy tradition with modern design. Other highlights are the natural beauty products by Ekseption, locally inspired fashion from My Mitoo and Azary’s jewellery crafted from Malagasy precious stones.

CHOCOLATE

Madagascar’s cocoa production may be small compared to the heavyweights of West Africa, but the plantations in the Sambirano Valley in the northwest of the island are renowned for producing high-quality Trinitario and Criollo beans that make their way to the chocolatiers of Tana. Sambika is a premium bean-to-bar producer — and a social enterprise supporting the local deaf community — that pours Madagascar’s cocoa, peanuts and vanilla into an array of premium bars and bonbons. They make great gifts too, with striking packaging that celebrates Madagascar’s biodiversity with motifs of baobab trees and traveller’s palms.

In the heart of the city, La Chocolaterie Robert has been a fixture of the capital since 1940, and today offers an array of premium bars made from its own cocoa plantations. With well-priced bars and truffles, the boutique in Antananarivo includes a café serving delicate patisserie.

LOCAL COLOUR

Brace yourself before you dive into the hurly-burly alleys of the Analakely Market, one of the largest public markets in the capital. It’s a bustling hub of local culture, where you’ll find everything from counterfeit kicks to fresh crabs. You’ll rub shoulders with locals stocking up on fresh produce, while a handful of stalls offer island spices and chilli preserves. Watch your pockets here, though, and keep a close eye on your valuables. If you’re feeling adventurous, local cafeterias on the outskirts of the market dish up an array of hyper-traditional Malagasy dishes at communal counters. It’s rough and unrefined, but thoroughly authentic.

LUNCH

Trains at the imposing Gare de Soarano, Antananarivo’s central train station, are few and far between these days, but more than a century later, the Grand Café de la Gare is still going strong. Established in 1913, when presumably the rails were busy with colonial traffic, this historic café is brimming with character, from the frescoed ceilings to plush banquettes and gilded chandeliers. On weekends, there’s a chalkboard menu of barbecue meats, but any day of the week, the poulet brochettes (chicken skewers) with rosemary are a time-honoured signature. To drink? The Cocktail Le Green Signe CG features local rhum and pineapple.

For a taste of local Malagasy fare without braving the market diners, head for Tamboho Restaurant at the Tana Waterfront. On a shady terrace overlooking a small wetland, Tamboho serves up an accessible collection of delicious local plates. The ravitoto — mashed cassava leaves with braised zebu (beef) — is excellent, but you’ll also find bowls of crab in green pepper curry, or an “Ocean Salad” featuring local shrimp and tuna.

ART

Madagascar’s contemporary art foundation is a revelation. Steps away from the chaotic pavements of downtown Antananarivo, you’ll find a serene courtyard and airy galleries that could have been lifted from Paris or Milan. Established in 2017, Fondation H offers a permanent collection of pan-African creativity, showcasing artists like Egypt’s Moataz Nasr, Mali’s Abdoulaye Konaté, Madagascar’s Temandrota and SA’s own Zanele Muholi. Downstairs, imposing steel staircases lead to the main galleries, which host annual exhibitions. On show until end-February 2026 is the bold and colourful Safiotra [Hybridités/Hybridities], by British-Nigerian artist Yinka Shonibare. Allow plenty of time to delve into “The African Library”, celebrating 6,000 notable Africans across human rights, music, literature, medicine, and economics. Entrance to Fondation H is free.

HISTORY

Dominating the skyline, the Rova — Queen’s Palace — of Antananarivo sits proudly atop the city’s tallest hill. There’s been a palace on this site since the 1600s, with the current stone structure dating back to 1867. Gutted by fire in 1995, it’s been beautifully restored into a world-class museum complex that unpacks the rise and fall of the island’s royal lineage amid a backdrop of French colonisation. With royal tombs dating back two centuries, and exhibits showcasing Madagascar’s 23 regions through crafts and artefacts, it's a fantastic introduction to the rich culture and chequered history of the island. Outside, you’ll find panoramic city views: visit late afternoon for fantastic sunset light on the roofs below.

NIGHT OWL

Fire Lake Grillhouse atop the Radisson Blu has become a go-to for the city’s trendy set, with a menu of flame-grilled fare and sushi drawing a cosmopolitan mix of locals and travellers. The rooftop cocktail bar is equally a drawcard, with outside tables offering fine views across the city. In the old part of the city, Nerone offers old-school Italian charm. For nightcaps and a taste of local creativity, head for Fara West in Faravohitra, a vibrant live music venue with a full roster of Malagasy performers.