The old bones of Alula’s newest hotel

As Saudi Arabia makes the headlines for its futuristic tourism developments — Oxagon, Trojena and The Line — one of the most exciting new arrivals is a hotel unashamedly rooted in the history and heritage of this desert kingdom.

In a country that only really opened to tourism in 2019, Alula, in northwestern Saudi Arabia, has fast become a poster child for the kingdom’s ambitious efforts to diversify its economy away from petrodollars and into global tourism. Celebrating the region’s millennia of human settlement, Alula leans heavily into shining a spotlight on the cultural richness of a country working hard to polish its image in the eyes of the world.

And while the region has attracted some of the world’s biggest names in hospitality — the likes of Habitas and Banyan Tree — Dar Tantora is doing things a little differently. Unlike the somewhat showy architecture of other tourism brands in and around Alula, Dar Tantora — which opened in early 2025 — works hard to blend into the background. There’s no starchitect creations here, nor scads of neon to announce its arrival. Tucked into the weathered heart of Alula’s Old Town, you might walk right past Dar Tantora if you’re not paying attention. And that’s exactly how it was intended.

Set in a cluster of restored mud-brick houses — ‘dar’ means house in Arabic — dating back centuries, this 30-room boutique destination doesn’t offer a Westernised reinterpretation of historic Alula architecture, but rather a true taste of history; restored and reimagined, embedded into the very bones of the town.

The revival of Dar Tantora was led by Egyptian architect Shahira Fahmy, who worked hard to dance with the existing architecture rather than impose her vision upon it. As a result, it’s a property that wouldn’t look out of place in the days when Alula was first settled, back in 12th-century.

Here the plastered walls are thick and uneven. Steps lead up, down and along happily meandering passageways. Wooden doors are thick, heavy and hand-carved. Light switches? Forget it. At sunset about 1,800 candles are lit throughout the hotel, their warm glow lighting the way and softening the edges of time.

Dar Tantora has opened with 30 rooms, and another 10 in the pipeline, and each room is unique: its layout dictated by the walls of the original buildings. Some offer rooftop terraces with wonderful views across Alula. Others stretch across two floors, or spill out onto courtyards. It’s an enigmatic space that speaks to the heart and soul of Alula.

Despite the desert locale there’s no air conditioning, but the original architects were adept at natural air flow, and you’ll not miss it. Nor will you miss the absent TV, though the 21st century does discreetly intrude with Wi-Fi. All the easier for you to summon your butler via WhatsApp. The most glaring modern addition is the rooftop pool but even that has been immersed into the aesthetic easily. You’ll find it flanked by daybeds and poufs, gazing across the rooftops and alleyways to the distant hills. There’s also a spa in the planning, but for now treatments — built on desert botanicals and local oils — are offered in your room. Candlelight is complimentary.

Hungry?

At the hotel’s all-day dining space, Joontos, the focus is firmly on traditional flavours from Saudi Arabia and the Middle East, on a menu built on ingredients from local farmers. Think fresh saj bread, pungent black olives, lamb kofta, fragrant spiced rice. There’s no alcohol served, this is Saudi Arabia after all, but the bar shakes up a fine line of punchy mocktails.

Another choice is the rooftop cafe, Al Maqha, where cushions and woven rugs are scattered across the sun-baked stones, encouraging you to sink in and admire the views of date palms in the oasis below. Or, visit late at night and look up. Parts of Alula were granted Dark Sky Park status in late-2024, and the stargazing is superb.

There’s plenty to explore in the daytime too, from the remarkable desert landscapes to the Nabatean tombs at Hegra, a Unesco World Heritage Site a short drive north of Dar Tantora. But for many travellers the real joy of Dar Tantora will not be getting out, but staying in.

While the likes of Habitas revel in their dramatic desert locale, Dar Tantora allows you to step out the front door and straight into the bustle of Alula’s Old Town and AlJadidah Arts District.

Discover Design Space Alula’s vision for the region or tap into artisan crafts at Madrasat Addeera. Walk straight past the Starbucks, an unfortunate bellwether of the town’s rapid growth, and seek out the local galleries, cafes and craft studios. Camel milk gelato? You’ll find that here too. At night, seek out the traditional music or spoken word performances that pop up at Alula Music Hub.

Local flavours, sounds and scents are the heart of a stay here, and while so many other — perhaps more obviously luxurious — hotels in the area recreate the charms of Alula, Dar Tantora is effortlessly enmeshed into this historic corner of the kingdom