A new-look Ngala, just in time for summer

As the mercury begins to climb in the Lowveld, the air fills with the unmistakeable whistle and trill of the Woodland Kingfisher, a telltale sign of the arrival of summer. But this year it’s not the only new arrival in and around the Kruger National Park, with respected safari operator andBeyond unveiling the revamped and rebuilt Ngala Tented Camp.

Ngala was one of the first safari lodges I visited in the Lowveld, and it charmed with an unpretentious approach to under-canvas safaris. Here understated tents and a laid-back lodge overlooking the dry sandy bed of the Timbavati River were the starting point for an experience that was all about immersion in the landscape.

But times change and today’s safari travellers demand increased levels of luxury and sophistication in the wilderness. Happily, the reimagining of Ngala Tented Camp retains much of that authentic charm while layering new levels of bush comfort into the experience.

The evolution of Ngala was brought to life by Fox Browne Creative, the respected design team led by Deborah Fox and Christopher Browne, who have decades of experience in creating exceptional safari spaces across Africa. And Ngala Tented Camp is certainly no exception.  

The décor walks a fine line between traditional and contemporary, with Shangaan-inspired colours and textures set against a mid-century aesthetic that shines through in the rich palette and woven furniture pieces. Regionally inspired embroidered designs and textiles against a backdrop of Ngala’s signature granite and canvas motifs complete the picture. 

And yet your gaze may wander elsewhere. In most corners of the lodge the ephemeral Timbavati River takes centre stage. While it springs to life after heavy thundershowers, for much of the year its course is dry, visited by elephants who dig for water beneath the sands. Over lunch one day a vast herd waited in the shade of Jackalberry trees on the far bank, while spoor in the sands tell of the nocturnal visitors — leopard and hyena included — who pass by unnoticed.

Ngala is an intimate camp: just nine tents set amid lush woodland, strung out on either side of the main lodge. And while the original tents felt a little exposed, today rerouting of the pathways and careful landscaping has ensured each of the nine suites enjoy plenty of privacy.

That’s especially welcome given the new outdoor lounges built onto each tent, creating a tranquil haven for whiling away the hours between game drives. Here curious vervet monkeys keep a keen eye out for any snacks left untended, while shy nyala nibble their way through the garden.

Indoors, the nine suites have been thoughtfully updated: expanded bathrooms now include indulgent indoor and outdoor showers, where you’ll also find an al fresco bathtub for a good long soak.

A (very) well-stocked private minibar runs from craft gin to a selection of Cape wines, meaning you can happily hunker down in your suite for the afternoon, or pour yourself an evening nightcap. The addition of a discreet butler’s hatch means that early morning coffees before game drives can be delivered without disturbance. 

Of course it is the game experiences that bring people to Ngala in the first place. Stretching across nearly 14,000ha, andBeyond Ngala Private Game Reserve shares unfenced borders with the Kruger National Park, creating a truly wild ecosystem that plays host to plains game and the Big Five, along with sought-after rarities including African wild dog and the area’s famous white lions. 

Open grasslands spring to life with the summer rains, signalling the start of the lambing season, and providing plenty of opportunities for predators. With ngala meaning “lion” in Shangaan, it’s perhaps no surprise that we soon spot two separate prides feasting on their success.

But there’s delight in the smaller details too: a pair of fluffy Black-backed jackal pups hiding behind a hollow tree. The rarely seen mating dance of a Red-crested korhaan, or the sight of a Tawny eagle taking flight. And in the early days of summer the boughs of the Silver cluster leaf spring into fresh growth.

It’s thirsty work, being on safari, but at Ngala there’s little risk of going too long without an opportunity to indulge.

An impressive selection of wines is all included in the rate, but if you feel the need for something special, you'll find a collection of library and boutique wines offered at extremely reasonable prices. Cederberg Winery’s Ghost Corner and Hamilton Russell’s iconic chardonnay are on offer here for far less than you would pay in a Johannesburg restaurant. Behind the bar the wines are matched by a seriously good collection of spirits: a few dozen single malts, and a hand-picked collection of artisan gins; the perfect ingredient for that G&T on a searing hot summer’s day.

Hungry? You’re in good hands here too. AndBeyond was one of the pioneers when it came to rethinking safari cuisine. Gone are the days of oxtail stews and hearty meals in the heat of summer. Instead look forward to a compact à la carte menu of light summery plates: from zesty squid salad to fish tacos that come to life with a drizzle of freshly-chopped chilli oil. At breakfast there’s similar creativity on display. There’s a full English if you need, but rather opt for the signature plates that change daily: from smoked salmon and poached eggs on potato rosti to a spicy shakshuka to kickstart your day.

Even if, like me, the rest of that day is likely to involve long periods of poolside sloth. If you’d rather infuse a little wellness into the wilderness, the revamp has added a rim-flow pool long enough for laps, and a brand-new gym kitted with TechnoGym and free weights. Right alongside is a cosy new spa treatment space, overlooking the Timbavati River. And there’ll be no spa music playing here this summer, just the soundtrack of the latest summer visitor.