Rich history and opulent charm combine at Edinburgh’s 100 Princes Street

There are many reasons to love Edinburgh. But perhaps start by soaking up the history of Edinburgh Castle, whose looming edifice has glared down at the city in some shape or form for more than 1,000 years. From the castle, it’s an easy stroll down the Royal Mile to the Palace of Holyroodhouse. Leave a moment to discover St Giles Cathedral, where soaring stonework, stained-glass windows and tributes to Robert Louis Stevenson and Robert Burns — two of the city’s most famous sons — make it one of the finest churches in Scotland.

You could explore the royal paraphernalia of Holyrood — the ancient Abbey is a delight — or make for the top of Calton Hill to admire views out across the city and the Firth of Forth, gun-metal-grey as it flows out into the North Sea. From on high you’ll also spy the road to Leith. This once-gritty dockyard suburb — Irvine Welsh set Trainspotting in these grimy streets — has transformed over the past decade and is brimming with galleries, coffee shops and trendy bars worth a wander.

Ah, the bars. When in Edinburgh you’ll want to be drinking whisky, and there’s no shortage of watering holes happy to pour you a dram of single malt.

In the Old Town Devil’s Advocate is famed for its whisky cocktails, while in Scotch Bar at The Balmoral Hotel — established 1902 — the whisky “keep” plays host to north of 500 malts with an array of tasting flights on offer.

The latest addition to the city’s whisky landscape is The Wallace, a plush dining room, bar, lounge and tasting room that offers an array of whisky flights, paying tribute to Scottish produce in all its forms. The kitchen is helmed by SA chef Wilhelm Maree, and that’s no surprise as The Wallace is the gastronomic heart of 100 Princes Street, the latest opening from Red Carnation Hotels.

Red Carnation Hotels has deep roots in SA, and still operates The Oyster Box in Umhlanga, The 12 Apostles Hotel & Spa in Cape Town and Bushmanskloof in the Cederberg, with elegantly idiosyncratic boutique hotels across three continents.

Floral discovery

100 Princes Street is the latest addition to the Red Carnation portfolio, and the group’s first in Scotland. Set in the former headquarters of the Royal Overseas League, and taking inspiration from the Scottish explorers who once frequented the building, Scotland’s rich cultural, historic and nautical legacy is deftly woven into the experience and aesthetic.

Take the hand-painted mural that greets guests on arrival. Stretching the length of the five-story staircase, it tells the story of hardy Scottish botanists and maps their contributions to the world of floral discovery.

It’s a sense of décor-as-immersion that was last seen at Xigera Safari Lodge, where African creativity is in the spotlight. At 100 Princes Street it’s Scotland’s turn, with decorative arts specialists Croxford and Saunders curating an impressive collection of bespoke furnishings, fabrics and artworks unique to the hotel. That includes five tartans by acclaimed Scottish designer Araminta Campbell, alongside hand-picked antiques and nauticalia woven throughout the property.

That level of detail was possible due to the size of 100 Princes Street; a boutique offering with just 30 rooms and two remarkable suites. Named The Archibald and The Isobel — after renowned Scottish explorers — the guests fortunate enough to stay in the suites enjoy unrivalled views of Edinburgh Castle. Whichever room you book, the offering is impressive, with bespoke décor and a sense of opulent abandon. Red Carnation doesn’t do minimalist, and here there’s a riot of colour and texture on offer.

The same goes for The Wallace, where Maree delivers a modern take on hearty Scottish fare, taking full advantage of the region’s remarkable fresh seafood: think lobster rolls with fresh Scottish catch, or North Sea haddock for a new spin on traditional fish and chips. Alongside The Wallace, Ghillie’s Pantry offers elegant private dining for up to 12 guests, with Maree creating bespoke tasting menus for each booking. Ghillie’s Pantry also plays host to specialised whisky tastings, tapping into the about 100 rare bottles that line the walls.

But of course, if uisge beatha is your passion, you’ll want to head out. Speyside is just an hour or two from the front door, and the concierge is only too happy to sort out an expert whisky tour, fly-fishing excursion or round on Scotland’s famous links-style golf courses. St Andrew’s, the spiritual home of golf, is just up the road after all. And that’s just the beginning. Edinburgh flies under the radar for many travellers heading to the UK, and yet it’s easily one of my favourite European capitals. And, with 100 Princes Street open at last, you’ll be assured of a fine place to lay your head.