Fine wines and famous fowl

“Vergenoegd ... the one with the ducks?”

That was the response just about every time I mentioned the estate I was headed to for a little winter staycation in the Western Cape Winelands.

And yes, they were all quite right: Vergenoegd Löw, to give it its full name, is that farm with the ducks.

The famous fowl in question are a flock of a few hundred Indian Runner ducks that set out on their daily parade (at 9am and 12pm, so you know) through the original Vergenoegd werf on their way to the vineyards. But they’re not just there to entertain the crowds of curious travellers and delighted kids who flock to see them. Rather, they’re waddling off to work, keeping the vineyards free of pests and offering natural fertiliser to the soil as a crucial element of the farm’s holistic vineyard management. And, an attraction that draws a crowd to the farm twice a day.

People may come for the ducks, but chances are they’ll stay for everything else the estate has to offer. Because there is much more to Vergenoegd Löw than the (admittedly entertaining) feathered ambassadors.

Start in the Homestead, a national monument that tells a little of the estate’s rich history. Dating back to 1696, it’s one of the oldest farms in the Cape and has weathered its share of ups and downs. It was certainly flagging somewhat in 2015 when German businessman and philanthropist Dr Peter Löw bought the farm from the Faure family, who had owned it for nearly two centuries. Since then, Löw — as part of his European Heritage Project — has done an excellent job in reinventing the farm, refreshing the historic buildings and reinventing the hospitality offering. And, of course, keeping the ducks on the payroll.                    

A turning point came in December 2022, when the estate’s boutique hotel welcomed its first guests to the luxury rooms and suites scattered around the estate. The Owner’s Villa is the pick of the bunch if your pockets are deep, but the quartet of cosy Deluxe Lodge Rooms within the Villa gardens make for a fine alternative, offering private pools and terraces. Closer to the homestead, the Presidential Suite is an indulgent bolt-hole, with extravagant amounts of private space and a sizeable pool deck and living area.

But the most recent addition is the six free-standing Luxury Cottages, set a little way from the Homestead amid vineyards and landscaped indigenous gardens. They’ve been built in a loosely Cape Dutch style, slotting neatly into the heritage aesthetic of the estate, but indoors it’s all about contemporary luxury with a dash of historic charm. The cottages sleep four guests in two bedrooms, each with its own spacious en suite, and share a cosy lounge complete with a wood-burning fireplace. Which, if you’ve been in the Cape this winter, you’ll know is a major plus.

In the summer months, I’ll be back to make the most of the private plunge pool and sun deck. Another nice touch is the inclusive minibar, generously stocked with craft beers, soft drinks and estate wines.

In step with the ongoing transformation of the estate is a fresh focus in the cellar, thanks to winemaker Vusi Dalicuba.

“This farm is my place of learning, all the time, each new day,” says Dalicuba, who was recently runner-up at the inaugural 2024 FedEx Next Generation Awards to identify emerging winemaking talent. “Here I get to grow with the vines.”

Dalicuba’s deft touch in the cellar is already evident in the new crop of red wine releases, showcasing a lighter, fresher style than the Vergenoegd cellar was once known for. It was his elegant cabernet sauvignon, from his maiden vintage on the estate, that bagged him the runner-up award.

“Here, the learning never stops,” he says. “We experiment as far and as widely as we can, innovating and exploring with different problem-solving and techniques, discovering different ways to augment traditional winemaking. We have, for example, introduced slightly cooler fermentation temperatures for greater freshness and to preserve the delicate fruit flavours of our wines.” 

You can discover Dalicuba’s wines in the historic Homestead, with daily guided tastings that are complimentary for guests staying the night on the estate. Or, upgrade your experience (R200 per person) to the unique “Indigenous” tasting, which pairs the estate wines with traditional flavours from the region, from west coast air-dried bokkoms and amasi, to dune spinach and roosterkoek.

Those last come courtesy of the fires of Geuwels, one of two restaurants on the estate overseen by chef Bertus Basson.

It’s a perfect fit for the estate, with Basson’s passion for indigenous SA flavours and techniques aligning with the celebration of heritage on the Vergenoegd Löw estate. Whether you’re tucking into the multi-course fine-dining of Clara’s Barn, or sampling the small plates of Geuwels, you’ll discover a proudly SA culinary experience across a world of flavour and texture. The only thing I couldn’t find on the menu, was duck. And perhaps that’s just as well.