MARNI — SOMETHING BORROWED, SOMETHING NEW
Designer Francesco Risso had a fitful start at Marni. Charged with plugging the gap left by the departure of the brand’s founder, Consuelo Castiglioni, in 2016, he has had to conjure something of the brand’s signature sculptural silhouettes, bold colour use and avant-gardism while also carving his own name. It hasn’t always been convincing.
For SS19, he seemed to be leaning on his own career history in the Prada womenswear studio to find his prints and form. The deconstructed corset tops, full skirts and vivid photo-prints (showing Grecian statues, naked bottoms, and abstracted paintbrush marks) retained hints of the styles at his former employer. In a good way. The looks were more feminine, the palette was arresting, the silhouette — which under Risso has been a bit sack-like and overwhelming — had been tightened up. It all looked a bit more sophisticated.