This is the year of the suit, with urban and contemporary iterations of classic tailoring coming to the fore. Traditional suiting meets subversive street influences to usher in the athluxury trend. The sea of conventional black suits is disrupted by sportswear-inspired separates, and autumnal hues and velvet and corduroy textures also make a showing
For the change in season, Donatella Versace suggests “new archetypes for the male wardrobe” that hint at a Versace tribe unified by classic dark colours. Voluminous topcoats and belted jackets complete the classically tailored look that features subtle, check-like, geometric patterns and bridge the casual and
the formal wardrobe.
The Salvatore Ferragamo collection suggests an urban, streamlined men’s
wardrobe for the winter months. This new look — defined by elongated coats,
shorter jackets and narrow, cropped pants — emits the feeling of fast-paced city life. The largely dark collection also features hints of camel, khaki, and bright orange.
The latest Giorgio Armani offering, called Neo-Classics, is a revival of the traditional menswear wardrobe. Armani redefines elegance with a collection of classics that shy away from traditional black suits and instead imbue the sartorial relevance of oceanic blues and urban greys in inherently tactile fabrics. Layering is the key to this collection, with striking sleeve scarves draped
over classic suits, and mohair hoodies worn under corduroy jackets.
With a new creative director taking charge, Berluti is approaching the coming season by going back to the basics — men’s wardrobe essentials. The latest collection is designed as a list of integral pieces, and Berluti presents wardrobe staples in a colour palette marked by contrasts, with seemingly clashing colours, such as khaki green and baby pink, combining with synergy in luxurious fabrics and sharp tailoring — perfect for everyday wear. For the new season and beyond, Berluti suggests a tuxedo jacket, perfectly tailored slim trousers, bomber jacket, and coat in rich hues of emerald green, royal blue, and
classic camel as wardrobe essentials.
For Autumn Winter 2017, Hermès brings a new “rockmantic” aesthetic, a collision of rock-inspired, leather, button-down shirts and jacket;, and shearling
accents and romantic, plush, velvet, single button suits and soft, moody separates. Classic silhouettes are reinvented with velvet, leather, and corduroy,
in a subdued but rich palette of dove grey, mauve, and ox blood; while bold, full velvet suits embody the epitome of luxury.
Ermenegildo Zegna’s latest collection ranges from effortless street style to traditional classic suits, marked by clean lines anda cascading colour palette of winter whites, rusted nail, and journal blue. Notable attention is paid to the jacket waist and trouser cuffs, where a single button accentuates a fitted
shape, and trousers slightly hug the ankles, true to the signature sportswear style.
DOLCE & GABBANA
True to Dolce & Gabbana style, the Autumn/ Winter collection contains an abundance of iridescent and brocade suits, with a clear regal influence. Decoratively embellished suits with regal crests and floral embroidery offer something for the sartorially loud-spoken, and sharp, tailored suits with cropped trousers and skinny ties offer a contemporary outlook on tailoring for the modern man. The runway itself was a millennial revolution, with an army of social-media influencers and recognisable faces.
The latest menswear collection from Prada is reminiscent of the ’70s, and hints at a normcore sense of style, driven by practical, everyday wear. Miuccia Prada described the springboard for the collection as, “the desire for reality, humanity,
and simpleness”. Prada defined the coming season with a handful of beige corduroy separates, easy V-necks, classiccut trousers, and long coats in soft leather and blended wool textures.
Relaxed elegance underpins the latest menswear collection from Louis
Vuitton. The collection, inspired by the melting pot of styles in New York city,
is quintessentially Louis Vuitton, with a twist — a collaboration with cult skate brand, Supreme. The new, street-savvy Louis Vuitton look, which was described as “smart, but street smart”, is defined by luxurious tailoring in utilitarian separates, untucked shirts, and slouching trousers.
Classic Dior Homme tailoring meets street wear in the label’s latest menswear runway show. The predominantly black collection is invigorated with the energy of youth and street culture with pops of citrus orange and vivid red. Silhouettes exhibit a playful twist, combining well-fitted tailoring on top with
wider, longer trousers and trainers on the bottom. Classic suits are given a street edge, with exposed hand stitching and buckle detailing.