The Westcliff’s long-standing high tea ritual has moved into the new Lobby Lounge & Bar, where executive pastry chef Nathan Jacobs has refreshed it with local ingredients, global influences and enough small, exquisite things to turn daintiness into a serious meal.
Drawing on local ingredients, global influences and a deep understanding of pastry’s precision, Jacobs has created an experience that balances nostalgia with a more contemporary sense of indulgence.
From his approach to flavour combinations and texture to his belief that great pastry is about chemistry rather than showmanship, Jacobs has repositioned tea as a two-hour pause in our fast-paced lifestyles — a time to relax, sip, inhale and feel, well, almost trippy. No wonder they call it “high tea”.
We speak to him about creativity, craftsmanship and how he is reimagining the art of the sweet course at one of Joburg’s most iconic hotels.
Afternoon tea has survived changing tastes, changing fashions and even Instagram. Why do you think we’re still drawn to the ritual of it?
We’re still drawn to afternoon tea as it removes us from the fast-paced lives we live, offering a pause, a moment of pure indulgence, unplugging from digital distractions and enjoying it all with great company.
Pastry is often described as the most precise discipline in the kitchen. Where do you allow yourself room to improvise and be creative?
The disciplines and the ratios will always remain in pastry. Everything is measured by the gram and portioned with a ruler. The innovation comes into play when blending flavour combinations, seasonal shifts and utilising textures for a great mouth feel when eating these creations.
South Africans have a strong sweet tooth, but tastes are changing. Have you noticed diners becoming more adventurous, or are people still chasing nostalgia on a plate?
Food is personal to each of us. But diners are merging the two by revisiting trusted classics or childhood favourites with modernised flavours and techniques.
If you had to create one dessert that summed up Joburg — not the Four Seasons, but the city itself — what would it taste like and why?
It would taste like rooibos and honey. These colours represent the city of gold and the city’s warmth and community coupled with its green suburban trees. This is what makes Joburg stand out.
You’ve worked in luxury hotels where every detail matters. What’s the biggest misconception people have about fine pastry?
Most people look for the fancy presentation and flashiness. But the real beauty lies in the chemistry of the ingredients, the depth of flavour and keeping it real and unpretentious, not just relying on a lot of sugar to make everything taste good. Not all chefs are experts on all kinds of food. I may not be able to tell you what went wrong with your sauce, but I will tell you why your cake didn’t rise. Being a chef means understanding how to maximise kitchen time and work efficiency, maintain proper hygiene standards, mass-produce dishes for large events and organise a team to produce the menu while maintaining top-quality tasting food. It’s never just slapping food on a plate. Ingredients are carefully selected, budgeted for and incorporated into a dish to, hopefully, play havoc with your tastebuds and create great food memories.
What’s the ingredient or technique you’re obsessed with at the moment that we can expect to see finding its way onto your menus over the next year?
Miso — it pairs well with so many ingredients and can be used in creating desserts. The technique is lamination — one of the most fascinating techniques in pastry cheffing.
Many hotel restaurants try to impress guests with complexity. Do you think we’ve reached a point where luxury is actually about restraint rather than excess?
Yes. Modern luxury is shifting toward restraint rather than the loud excesses. At the forefront is craftsmanship, keeping things simple yet elegant and allowing core flavours to speak with a touch of whimsicalness.
What’s the one ingredient that’s always in your fridge or pantry, not because you need it for your job but because you can’t live without it?
This is a tricky one — there are so many ingredients I can’t live without. If I were forced to choose, I’d say chillies of all kinds. I love spicy, bold food that doesn’t necessarily burn your tongue off but adds extra flavour.
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