Four delicious Dhal recipes just for you, Dhal-ing

SA’s MasterChef second-season winner Kamini Pather’s debut cookbook features everyday “Indian-ish” good-mood food, including her take on calming bowls of delectable dhal and one very special one her dad introduced her to.

What is dhal, you ask? Dhal is the collective word for dried pulses that have been split, such as lentils, peas and beans; these are used extensively in South Asian and Indian cuisine to make a gorgeous, steaming bowl of thick soup or stew. As the pulses are an excellent source of protein, dhal is an excellent meatless option and a popular dish in vegetarian cooking.

These five bowls, from Kamini Pather’s cookbook All Dhal’d Up, may be used as sides for any other dishes but also have the audacity and capability to stand alone and inspire us to truly live in the present.

Hey Dhal-ling

Serves 2

Dhal is a food for all seasons. It goes with everything and really just feels as though it’s shining good vibes up from your plate. Now who couldn’t resist that? My dad introduced me to a bowl of steaming dhal with a simple carrot and cucumber salad. It’s the perfect snack or pre-dinner morsel.

Ingredients:

• ½ cup yellow split peas
• 1 clove garlic
• ¼ lemon
• ½ Tbsp coconut oil
• ¼ tsp black mustard seeds
• ½ tsp cumin seeds
• 1 dried red chilli
• 5 fresh curry leaves
• ½ onion, sliced 
• ½ tsp ground turmeric (or 0.5cm piece turmeric root, grated)
• A pinch of finely ground black pepper
• ½ tsp asafoetida
• 1–2 tsp salt 
• 1 tsp butter 
• Chopped fresh coriander to garnish

Method:

1. Rinse the split peas until the water runs clear. It may take 3–4 rinses (save the water for your plants). Add the rinsed split peas to a pressure cooker. Add enough water to the cooker to cover the split peas by 2cm. Toss in the garlic and lemon. Pressure cook on high for 20 minutes, then allow to release naturally for 5 minutes.
2. In a small pot, heat the coconut oil, then add the seeds and allow them to pop. Add the chilli, curry leaves, onion, turmeric, black pepper, asafoetida and half the salt. Cook until the onion is glassy and softened.
3. Once the pressure cooker has released and the dhal is cooked, discard the lemon and add the cooked dhal to the pot with the onion-y magic. At this stage you need to check if it is the right consistency. If you prefer a runnier dhal, add more water. Also taste for seasoning and adjust if necessary.
4. Heat the dhal to a gentle boil, then mix in the butter. Garnish with chopped coriander and serve warm.  

Bacon Dhal

Serves 2 (as a main meal)

The internet came at me when I posted this recipe because dhal is prayer food, the most pious of dishes, and when paired with the most divisive of meats — bacon — some people were ready with pitchforks. But have no fear, this dish is amazing with chicken “bacon” too. There is something quite incredible about that smoky, devilish hit of bacon with the cumin and mustard seeds that really brings a smile to many a sad face.

Ingredients:

• ½ cup pink masoor dhal 
• 2 cloves garlic 
• 375ml (11/2) cups water 
• ½ pack (120g) streaky bacon
• 15ml (1 tbsp) coconut oil 
• ½ white onion (±85g), peeled and diced
• 1 fresh whole red chilli, stalk removed 
• 2.5ml (1/2 tsp) black mustard seeds 
• 2.5ml (½ tsp) cumin seeds 
• Pinch (¼ tsp) asafoetida 
• Pinch (¼ tsp) grated turmeric root 
• A pinch of finely ground black pepper   
• ½ cup chicken stock
• 1-2 cups boiling water 
• 15g butter

To serve:

Greek-style yoghurt; 2 slices sourdough, broken into bite-sized pieces and air-fried at 200°C for 5 minutes; chilli oil and sprigs of fresh coriander.

Method:

1. Add the dhal to a saucepan. Pour in enough water to cover the dhal, then ruffle them with your fingers to loosen any dust or dirt before draining the water. Repeat 2–3 times with clean water, until the water runs clear. (Tip: don’t waste the water — save it for your plants.) 
2. Pour the washed pink dhal into a pressure cooker with 1 clove of garlic and 1-2 cups of water. Pressure cook on high for 15 minutes. You can also cook the dhal on the stove top for 20–25 minutes. 
3. Meanwhile, either in an air-fryer at 160°C or in a pan over a medium heat, cook the bacon in a single layer for 15 minutes. The bacon will render about 1 tablespoon of dripping, which you need to save. 
4. Add the coconut oil and bacon drippings to a pan, then fry the onion, chilli, mustard and cumin seeds, asafoetida, turmeric, black pepper and remaining garlic clove, until the onion is translucent. Add the chicken stock to deglaze the pan (1–2 minutes), then add the soaked dhal to the pan with ½ a cup of boiling water. Bring to a boil before adding the crispy bacon to the pan. Using a stick blender, blend the dhal with the butter. If the dhal is too thick, add a little more water, then check for seasoning. 
5. To serve, divide the dhal between two bowls, dollop on a spoonful of yoghurt, scatter with sourdough croutons, swirl through some chilli oil and add a few sprigs of coriander. 

Green Mung Dhal

Serves 2

Mung dhal has an earthiness to it, possibly because it is green. It imparts a greenish hue to the final dish, which somehow makes me feel better for it. The coconut milk adds a welcome sweetness to this dish with layers of flavour from the rest of the ingredients. Serve it with a curry or as is with toasted bread and a dollop of Greek-style yoghurt while you relax on your couch, in socks, as it rains outside.

Ingredients:

• 125ml (1/2 cup) mung beans
• 1 clove garlic
• ¼ lemon 
• 375ml (1½ cups) water 
• ½ Tbsp coconut oil
• ¼ tsp black mustard seeds
• ½ tsp cumin seeds 
• ½ white onion, peeled and diced
• ½ tsp asafoetida 
• 4 fresh curry leaves
• 1 fresh whole green chilli, slit from flat side to point but not cut right through, and stalk removed 
• ½ tsp ground turmeric or 0.5cm piece turmeric root, grated
• A pinch of finely ground black pepper
• 2 tsp garam masala
• ±2 tsp salt
• 1 tomato, diced
• 3 Tbsp coconut milk
• Fresh coriander leaves to garnish

Method:

1. Rinse the mung beans with water, until the water runs clear (twice). Add the beans, garlic, lemon and water to a multi cooker (for example Instant Pot) or a pressure cooker covered with a lid. Pressure cook on high heat for 20 minutes, then allow to release naturally for 5 minutes. 
2. Heat the coconut oil in a small pot, then add the mustard and cumin seeds. Allow them to pop before adding the onion, asafoetida, curry leaves and chilli. Once the onion is soft and translucent, add the ground spices and half the salt. As soon as the plume of aromatics is released, add the tomato. Cook until the tomato has softened, and the onion and tomato mixture has turned into a thick paste.
3. Add the mushy mung beans to the pot with the spicy paste. Mix and allow to reach a gentle simmer. This should happen quite quickly because the beans will still be warm from the pressure cooker. Add the remaining salt and check for taste; dhal is always better with the right amount of seasoning. Pour in the coconut milk and ensure that the dhal is to your preferred consistency. Adjust accordingly before serving.
4. Serve in bowls, garnished with a scattering of fresh coriander or as you prefer. 

Veg Dhal

Serves 4

This dish was probably invented by accident, but we are not upset about delicious mistakes like this. It’s a good dish to make when there is an abundance of vegetables but a limited amount of time or general inclination to cook them individually. This recipe calls for calabash, brinjal and green beans but would forgivingly accept the wiles of any wintry vegetable.

Ingredients:

• ½ cup yellow split peas
• ¼ tsp white urad dhal (optional) 
• 1-2 cups water 
• 2 Tbsp coconut oil
• ¼ tsp cumin seeds
• ¼ tsp black mustard seeds 
• ¼ tsp fenugreek seeds 
• 1 small onion, peeled and finely sliced
• 1 small tomato, skin on and diced 
• 1–2 fresh green chillies 
• 1 clove garlic, grated 
• ½ tsp grated ginger
• 2 tsp masala 
• ½ tsp ground turmeric 
• 2–3 tsp salt
• ⅓ cup green beans, topped and tailed and chopped into thirds 
• 8–10 baby brinjals, with a single incision at the thickest ends 
• ⅓ cup calabash gourd, skinned and roughly chopped into 3cm cubes (these are available from Asian grocers or fresh veg markets) 
• ±1 Tbsp tamarind water (1 Tbsp dried brown tamarind pulp or 1–3 tsp tamarind paste, plus 1 Tbsp warm water, see method) 

Method:

1. Place the split peas and white urad dhal (if using) in a small pot. Wash 2–3 times with water to clean off any impurities. When the water runs clear, top with 1½ cups of water, bring to a boil and cook over a medium heat until the peas and urad dhal soften enough to be squashed between your index finger and thumb.
2. Heat the coconut oil in another, larger pot over a high heat. Toss in the cumin, mustard and fenugreek seeds, and allow to pop. Lower the heat to medium, add the onion and allow to cook until glassy. Add the tomato, chilli, garlic, ginger, Ma’s masala, turmeric and 2 teaspoons of salt, then cook for 5 minutes. Add the vegetables to the pot and cook until the green beans are soft but maintain a good bite (10–15 minutes).
3. Using a fork or potato masher, squash half the peas and urad dhal (it should be thick), then add it to the vegetables. Bring the veg dhal to a boil.
4. Meanwhile, prepare the tamarind water by placing the tamarind pulp or paste into the warm water. Using your fingertips, break down the tamarind, and remove the seeds and fibre. Pour into the veg dhal and bring to a boil. Taste for seasoning and adjust if necessary.
5. Serve the dhal immediately, garnished as desired. 

Rasam

Serves 4–6

Rasam or rasso, depending on your family’s geographical origins, is a spicy tamarind broth. I’ve even heard it referred to as “king soup” and, I must admit, that name is rather fitting, because the flavour will make a person feel rather special. It’s great on its own and perfect for when you feel as though you’re coming down with the flu, because the hot-spicy-sour flavour jump-starts the body in quite a spectacular way. But it’s just as amazing when served over other food.

Ma’s (my maternal grandmother’s) advice is not to allow the rasam to boil, as it will become bitter. Rather allow it to gently simmer up to temperature.

Ingredients:

• ¼ cup dhal (yellow split peas or pink masoor dhal)
• ½ cup water 
• 2 Tbsp coconut oil
• ½ medium onion, sliced 
• ¼ tsp grated turmeric root 
• 5 fresh curry leaves 
• ½ tsp cumin seeds 
• ½ tsp black mustard seeds
• ½ tsp black pepper
• 1 clove garlic
• 2–3 tsp coarse salt
• ¼ tsp asafoetida
• 2 dried red chillies 
• 1/2 tomato 
• 1–11/2 cups water 
• 1–2 Tbsp brown tamarind paste 
• A few sprigs of fresh coriander

Method:

1. Wash the dhal in cold water until the water runs clear. Add the dhal to a saucepan, pour in the 1/2 cup of water, bring to a boil and cook for 15–20 minutes, or until it starts to soften. Drain and set aside.
2. To a small pot, add the coconut oil with the onion, turmeric, curry leaves, cumin seeds, black mustard seeds, black pepper, garlic, salt, asafoetida and chillies. Cook over a medium heat until the onion softens and the spices start to release their aroma. You will know the mixture is ready when the mustard seeds start to pop. Add the tomato and cook for 10 minutes.   
3. Add 1 cup of water to the dhal and aromatics before mixing in half of the tamarind paste. Add more, depending how sour you prefer it, so start with a little and adjust if necessary. Mix well and taste for seasoning. Adjust the salt and amount of water as needed; remember that this should have a broth-like consistency. Bring the rasam to a simmer. 
4. Serve in bowls with a sprig of coriander.

Sunday Times Lifestyle