An artful gastronomic collaboration with triple-Michelin-star chef Gilles Varone — part of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s annual Made of Makers programme — saw the 30-year-old Swiss maestro create magic with ingredients sourced from the Vallée de Joux, the birthplace of the watch manufacturer, while certainly challenging any preconceptions I may have held about a certain cheesy national dish.
More than a showcase of artistic collaboration, the Made of Makers programme explores the fertile ground where watchmaking intersects with other creative disciplines. By partnering with artists, artisans and innovators whose work embodies a similar commitment to craftsmanship, imagination and technical mastery, the Maison creates meaningful exchanges that transcend the boundaries of horology.
At its heart is a belief that traditional skills and cultural practices remain powerful catalysts for contemporary creativity. Whether expressed through gastronomy, music, visual arts, perfumery or other forms of making, these collaborations reveal a shared pursuit of excellence, emotional resonance and thoughtful innovation.
The programme seeks out individuals whose passion, humility and dedication to their craft mirror the values that have guided Jaeger-LeCoultre for generations. In doing so, it has nurtured a diverse global community of makers united by a curiosity to challenge conventions, surprise audiences and continually reinvent their chosen medium. At Watches and Wonders Geneva each year, the Maison presents an experimental journey with its latest Maker.
Following the inspired decadence of chef-chocolatier Mathieu Davoine in 2025, this year’s collaboration once again united two crafts synonymous with Swiss culture and industry. Varone invited guests on a gastronomic exploration of one of Switzerland’s most iconic — and often polarising — ingredients: cheese. In doing so, he rose to the challenge of interpreting this year’s theme, “Valley of Inventions”, which celebrates the wild, earthy ingredients of the Jura Mountains and the Vallée de Joux, birthplace of both the Maison and high-complication watchmaking.
One of the best ways to communicate the story of a place — its beauty, its character, its magic — is by creating from source. “It makes me truly happy to go out into the mountains and forage for wild berries and other ingredients, create something beautiful with them, and serve it to guests. To say, ‘This is what we picked this morning, and this is how we worked with it,’ is incredibly rewarding.”
Innovation, complexity and precision are attributes inherent to both the culinary arts and watchmaking. Whether expressed through the dexterity required to create unique gastronomic experiences or the meticulous assembly of miniature mechanical components, both disciplines thrive on craftsmanship, respect for tradition and a relentless pursuit of excellence.
After apprenticeships in London at Anton Mosimann’s Club, Petrus by Gordon Ramsay and Claude Bosi’s Bibendum, Varone and his wife, Letizia, opened their eponymous restaurant in 2022 in his home village of Savièse in the Valais canton, about 150km southeast of the Vallée de Joux. His rise has been meteoric. Named Best Young Chef in the UK by The Craft Guild of Chefs, he was also awarded the title of Best Young Swiss Chef in 2024.
Today, the restaurant holds two Michelin stars, including a Michelin Green Star, which recognises both culinary excellence and a commitment to sustainable gastronomy through environmentally responsible and ethical practices.
His philosophy is refreshingly simple: “Nature. That’s it. We follow nature, we pick a lot of stuff, we forage. We follow what nature gives us and try to work only with Swiss products and showcase the terroir of Valais, where I come from.”
This approach is made possible through a network of close relationships with local growers and producers who share a common purpose. In some respects, it echoes the historic établissage system of Swiss watchmaking, where individual components were produced by specialist craftspeople working from their own homes. In 1833, Antoine LeCoultre brought these skills together under one roof, establishing the LeCoultre atelier and laying the foundations for both the Manufacture and modern watchmaking production as we know it today.
Varone’s passion for terroir was expressed through four ambrosial bites crafted exclusively for Jaeger-LeCoultre. Reimagining the classic cheeseboard as a multisensory tasting experience, each creation was designed to be enjoyed in a single mouthful. Despite the demands of the fair, Varone was always on hand to discuss each creation and the playfulness of the riddle cards that accompanied the presentation: his cheerful and attentive demeanour suggesting the same warm hospitality that guests report of their encounter at his eponymous restaurant.
Opening with a gentle allegro, the self-described “cheese composer” presented the Perle d’Hiver tartlet: a delicate sweet-and-sour flavour pearl that ruptured on the tongue, evoking a winter landscape. This subtle yet distinctive profile was achieved through a skilful balance of creamy, nutty tomme fraîche, the mint, floral and woody notes of local honey, and the delicate acidity of verjuice paired with heirloom Rissoles pear compote.
His adagio progressed in both intensity and surprise with the Macaron Forestier, transforming the familiar Parisian sandwich cookie into a delectable savoury revelation. Resembling a miniature slider, the almond-meringue shells encased a heavenly umami-sweet centre that combined herb-infused Maréchal cheese ganache, freshly picked mountain herbs and the resinous notes of pine powder (similar to that of wild rosemary).
Between bites, a nonalcoholic cocktail of apple juice and pine provided a refreshing palate cleanser.
With the Quiche du Chalet, Varone elevated the humble cheese tart through a minuet of vibrant flavours. Punchy notes of herbs and tomme fraîche intertwined with a turmeric-and-pear-infused glaze, hazelnut oil and an intensely savoury cheese crust.
The Coeur du Neige, his finale, was a true magnum opus that umami-bombed my long-held aversion to traditional fondue. Resting on a crisp breadcrumb base, a moitié-moitié foam of Gruyère and raclette unleashed an avalanche of flavour, deftly harmonised by hand-picked wild garlic capers and pickles. If the way to a man’s heart is indeed through his stomach, this “Heart of Snow” may well be the perfect panacea for settling our differences.
With tasting menus starting at around R4,000 for five courses, Restaurant Gilles Varone remains firmly on the aspirational side of this journalist’s budget. That made the opportunity to experience the award-winning creativity of Varone and his team at Watches and Wonders all the more memorable.
Wanted
