Following South Africa’s flavours with Warren Mendes

Warren Mendes left South Africa as a teenager in 1999. After many different careers and endeavours, he became a chef and developed the concept of a new show called Food Trail — a culinary journey through South Africa with Mendes as the guide. From this, Food Trail South Africa the book was born — and it won the 2025 Gourmand Award for Best Celebrity Chef Cookbook in the World. It invites us to savour the vibrant flavours and diverse dishes discovered on the renowned chef’s gastronomic expedition through the country. From bustling markets to hidden kitchens, his cookbook unveils his take on authentic local recipes. We asked him a few questions.

How did your own food journey begin?

Since a kid, I was always interested in cooking (and eating of course!). Growing up in South Africa, food was always tied to gathering, laughter and connection — whether it was a braai with family, a curry bubbling away for friends or one of my mom’s comfort dishes during the week. That passion grew but I actually went to university and studied accounting and economics — I know, not the usual path for a chef! After a few years working in the corporate world at Deloitte, I decided I had to follow my passion, and at the age of 24 I left my corporate job to train at Le Cordon Bleu in Sydney, Paris and London — and I have never looked back!

You left with your family to stay in Australia in 1999. What led you back to South Africa?

Ever since moving to Australia, my family have always maintained a connection to the country, returning almost every year. I am one who believes that your heart can be in more than one place — just because Australia was my home, it did not mean that South Africa still didn’t hold a huge part of my heart. Having built my food career overseas, I came up with the concept to do a show about me returning to my roots and rediscovering the dishes I grew up with, but also to explore the flavours and cultures I hadn’t experienced before as a chef overseas. I worked a lot with the South African Tourism office in Australia, and they supported me to create the series.

You write that South Africa is largely responsible for bringing new flavours to the Western world. Could you elaborate on that?

South Africa’s food culture has been shaped by centuries of migration and the trade routes of the world. Cape Town began as a key stopover on the Spice Route between Europe and the East before the Suez Canal existed, bringing together flavours and people from India, South East Asia, Europe and across Africa. So, South Africa played a vital part in bringing huge spice and eastern flavours to the Western world. I also love how a lot of South Africans have taken spices from the West and done incredible things, even broken the rules, all in the name of flavour.

How did the show Food Trail come about?

I was working as the food editor of Delicious magazine in Australia and ... did a lot of travel and writing. I got to know the South African Tourism office in Australia as a collaborator on their media trips promoting South Africa to Australians. At the same time, I was also working with Channel 10 (a large local [Australian] TV station) and a production company called Projucer. I came up with the concept, and with the support of all of those parties, we produced the show. A false start with Covid, but as soon as those gates opened in 2022, we were off to South Africa filming Season 1. This April, I just returned from filming Season 4. The show is now screened in many counties all over the world.

How do you research where and who to shoot?

Research is a huge part of the process and one that I really love. We speak to chefs, home cooks, hospitality organisations, producers, and locals across the country in the months leading up to the show. There are lots of late nights in Oz on video calls to South Africa, but we get to uncover some amazing places and people in the research process. A lot of it is organic too, and decided on the ground. A lot of the chefs or people I work with on camera are collaborated with when we meet them for the first time. It is a show about real people and stories, and many of the guests have never been on TV before. I love the spontaneity of it too — which is possible when we have a solid structure to produce the show.

What is the easiest and most difficult part of shooting Food Trail: South Africa?

We have a brilliant crew who make the show the most incredible thing to work on. Half of the crew are local to South Africa and the other half are based overseas (although we all actually have family connections in South Africa). Of course, it’s also easy to shoot brilliant locations and brilliant food — and I have a large appetite which helps ... The hardest part is the unpredictability of filming in real and remote locations. Apart from the weather, we shoot all over the country, and have to just make it work sometimes in terms of weather, ingredients, props, timing, etc. We once had a batch of koeksisters ruined by sudden rain while filming in Pretoria, and just had to start filming again.

What is the one ingredient that is essential in your pantry?

Sea salt flakes — the best finisher to any sweet or savoury recipe, but if we are talking non-staple, I would say a good masala or curry powder mix. A good masala can make the most incredible meal with ease. Think of cooking onions in a little oil, followed by garlic and then a good masala – all you need is some coconut cream, chicken, veg, and you have an epic meal! I have my own “Mendes Masala” recipe in the book, which is so great to batch up.

Are there plans to do another series set somewhere else?

We have just returned from filming Season 4 of Food Trail: South Africa — so after the current season you are watching, there will be another three seasons to catch up on! I don’t see us stopping — there are so many stories and places to discover in South Africa — so hopefully we will be doing this interview again for Food Trail: South Africa Season 25!

What are some of the biggest lessons you learnt from other South African cooks?

One of the biggest lessons I learnt is that simplicity and generosity are two of the most powerful ingredients. So many South African cooks don’t overcomplicate things, but they still cook with big bold flavour. Every cook has their own version of a dish, and that’s what makes food culture so special and alive.

What advice would you give to aspiring chefs/TV chefs?

My advice would be to continuously learn from other people — and not just other chefs. Home cooks hold some incredible flavour power. I would also say, stay true to your flavour and don’t try copy anyone else — then success will come. Travel if you can, and connect with people to broaden your palate and understanding. Above all, be yourself!

How did it feel to win the 2025 Gourmand Award for Best Celebrity Chef Cookbook in the World?

Winning the award was incredibly surreal and a moment I will never forget. The book is deeply personal because it celebrates South Africa, and because it sprouted from the TV show — which is the best job in the world. To get recognised on a global stage was something incredible not just for me, but also for all those who contributed to the book and show.

Do you have a favourite South African dish?

For me it is always Bobotie — and it’s the first recipe in my cookbook for that very reason. To me it reflects South African food — blending flavours and spice from across the world into one comforting dish. And if it’s sweet, it’s a milk tart.

Warren’s Chenin Shanks with Brown Butter and Parmesan Mash

I believe in the mantra you should never cook with wine you wouldn’t drink, and I love a good drop of crisp white. I obviously wouldn’t take that as far as saying the best wine should be used for cooking, but if it tastes bad in the bottle, it will taste bad in your dish. I love lamb shanks, as each person gets their own mini roast. I have mostly cooked them in red wine with a rich tomato sauce. However, I soon realised that you can get a totally different dish, celebrating the lamb’s sweet, delicate flavour, if you cook it in a more subtle wine.

This recipe forms more of a “blanco” sauce, which is packed with flavour but lets the lamb sing. South Africa makes brilliant white wines, particularly chenin blanc and chardonnay — pair that with their love of Karoo lamb and you have a pretty decent Sunday roast here. Brown butter and parmesan mash is a bit of a game-changer too.

Serves: 4

Ingredients:

• 2 tbsp sunflower oil
• 4 lamb shanks
• 2 brown onions, sliced
• 1 bunch parsley, stalks chopped, leaves picked
• 4 garlic cloves, chopped
• 1 tbsp chopped rosemary
• 2 tsp caster sugar
• 1 1/2 cups chenin blanc (or other dry white wine)
• 2 cups chicken stock
• 400g cherry tomatoes

Parmesan potatoes:

• 1kg medium potatoes, peeled, chopped
• 100g unsalted butter, browned
• ½ cup pouring cream
• 1/2 cup finely grated parmesan cheese

Method:

1. Preheat oven to 140°C. Heat 2 tbsp oil in a casserole pan over medium–high heat. Season lamb, then brown in the pan, turning, for 8–10 minutes until well caramelised. Remove from pan.
2. Add a little oil to the pan if needed, then the onion and parsley stalks then cook, stirring, for 3–4 minutes until softened. Add the garlic and rosemary, then cook for a further 2 minutes or until fragrant. Add the sugar, wine and stock, scraping the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon. Bring to a simmer.
3. Return lamb shanks to the pan and top with half the cherry tomatoes. Cover with baking paper and the lid (or just tightly with foil if using a roasting pan). Cook in the oven for 3 hours or until very tender.
4. Place the potatoes in a large saucepan and cover with plenty of cold water. Cover and bring to the boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium and simmer partially covered until the potato is tender. Drain and return to the pan. Add the cream and butter to the potato and use a potato masher or fork to mash until the mixture is almost smooth. Add the parmesan and beat until smooth. Taste and season with salt and pepper.
5. Remove lamb shanks carefully from the pan as they will be tender and can fall apart easily. Skim excess fat. Place the sauce over medium heat, add the remaining tomatoes and reduce to a thick coating sauce. Season with salt and lemon juice to balance. Serve shanks on the potato mash with the sauce and scattered with chopped parsley leaves.

Tip: To make brown butter, simply melt it in a saucepan and cook until the butter foams and the milk solids just start to turn brown. Remove from the heat and pour into a heatproof bowl to stop the cooking process.

Warren’s Quick Pickle Salad

Ingredients:

• 200g cherry tomatoes, halved
• 1 red onion, thinly sliced
• 1 Mediterranean cucumber, chopped
• ¼ cup apple cider vinegar

Method:

I use a deep ovenproof frying pan for this recipe as a one-pot wonder. However, the mince filling can be cooked first in a regular pan and then transferred to a 2–2.5l baking dish to bake the custard on top.

1. Preheat the oven to 180°C.
2. Soak the bread in ½ cup (125ml) of milk and set aside. Melt the butter in a large, deep ovenproof frying pan over medium heat. Add the onion, curry leaves and 2 bay leaves and cook, stirring, for 3–4 minutes or until soft. Season with salt and freshly cracked black pepper.
3. Add the garlic, ginger, curry powder and stir for 1 minute or until fragrant. Add the tomato paste, chutney and vinegar and cook for 2–3 minutes to caramelise the mixture slightly. Add the mince and cook, breaking up any lumps with a wooden spoon, for 10 minutes or until browned. Stir in the soaked bread and milk, breaking it up to combine, then add the sultanas and almonds.
4. Add 1 cup (250ml) of water and check the seasoning. Reduce the heat to medium–low and cook for 10 minutes or until thickened and reduced.
5. For the topping, beat the eggs, turmeric and remaining 1 cup (250ml) milk in a bowl or jug and season with salt. Remove the beef mixture from the heat, then press down on the mixture to create a flat compact surface — there shouldn’t be a lot of excess liquid here (if using a baking dish, this is where you transfer the mixture). Carefully pour over the egg mixture and scatter with the bay leaves. Bake for 40 minutes or until the topping is golden.
6. Meanwhile, for the pickle, combine all the ingredients in a bowl and set aside.
7. Remove the bobotie from the oven and serve immediately with the pickle, extra chutney and yellow rice.

*Food Trail South Africa by Warren Mendes is published by Penguin Books

Food Trail: South Africa airs Sundays at 11.30 on Food Network, DStv 175. (until June 21)

Adapted from an article first published in Sunday Times Lifestyle.