Review | Figo, Sea Point and letting go

From Script Bar to the eighth floor, Figo at The Cole provided an unhurried send-off

Figo Restaurant occupies the rooftop of The Cole Hotel in Sea Point. (Supplied)

My daughter and I had dinner at Figo the week before she left for Stellenbosch University to start her first year. Our dinner together was a small gesture to mark the moment without making too much of it. She’s 19 years old, old enough to want to leave home and fend for herself and young enough not to know how much effort and time goes into cooking good meals … or anything else. She’ll soon find out.

Sea Point, in that late-afternoon light, with the Atlantic Ocean doing the magic of reflecting its sparkle directly onto her skin from eight floors below, was the perfect place to embark on that auspicious send-off disguised as dinner. The promenade was full, the traffic was starting to get rush-hour irritating, the crowds on the street were sweaty from the day, but from the top of the Cole Hotel, where you have miles of sea view to mask Sea Point’s more democratic reality, none of this mattered.

Before heading upstairs though, we’d whet our appetites with some cocktails at the Cole Hotels’ Script Bar, a social hot spot on the street level. In the loungey space, decorated in tasteful neutral, the lighting is low enough to flatter even me. The music was cocktailish to go with the menu, which is designed to appeal to every taste. Each drink comes annotated: sweet, sour, aromatic or spicy to satisfy exactly what you feel like in the moment.

The Clarified Mojito and Ember Bloom cocktails at Script. (Supplied)

We worked our way through a yuzu margarita, a passionfruit mezcal paloma and a pear old fashioned, finishing with a negroni, which reminded both of us that adulthood isn’t supposed to be easy. The drinks were precise without being pretentious — balanced, considered and pretty delicious.

There’s something about sharing a drink with your child when they’re no longer quite a child that shifts the dynamic in subtle, irreversible ways. The conversation loosens. The silences become more companionable. The advice is mutual.

Later, we took the lift up to Figo, and as we walked into the restaurant the Atlantic hit us with its impressive beauty. The restaurant doesn’t try to compete with that ancient bit of geography; it frames it with careful, classy appeal.

The menu reads as modern Italian with Mediterranean inflections — pizzettes, handmade pastas, seafood, grilled meats — but the real work happens over wood and coal, which lends a depth that rescues the familiar from the merely competent.

Figo's prawns. (Supplied)

My daughter ordered the slow-roasted lamb shank with mash, a choice I found surprising but impressive. When it arrived, it silenced any lingering doubt. The meat collapsed off the fork, the richness balanced just enough to prevent it from tipping into indulgence. She stopped eating long enough to declare it “one of the best meat dishes I’ve ever eaten”, and insisted that I taste it.

I chose the white tiger prawn tagliatelle — chilli, white wine, garlic, prawn bisque — a dish that could have been excessive in richness but wasn’t. The flavours were balanced, the pasta cooked just right and the prawns were fresh and well handled.

Figo's seafood tagliatelle dish and cheesecake. (Supplied)

Since everything on the menu sounded too delicious to choose just one meal, we shared a few more tasters; a roast side of sea bass — clams, tomato, olives, thyme — which arrived as though designed specifically for that table and the view.

The ribeye, ordered more out of curiosity than necessity, was grilled precisely, the black truffle jus adding depth without distraction from the meatiness. Even the house salad — pistachio-pecorino dressing — was unexpectedly memorable, a reminder that good ingredients when combined properly, can be as impressive as invention.

What struck me, as we moved through the meal, was not the ambition of the menu but its calibration. Nothing felt like it was trying too hard. The food understands the setting and plays to it, rather than against it, resisting trying to overcomplicate everything.

My daughter, midway through her lamb, was talking about Stellenbosch — about lectures, residences, people she hadn’t met but seemed to want to get to know. There was excitement and anticipation. Or the beginning of independence, which feels like absence when you’re the one being left behind. We stayed longer than necessary. The progression from bar to rooftop, where we shared stories like the bites shared from each other’s plates. It was an evening structured to unfold not rush. No one hurried us.

Figo Restaurant interior. (Supplied)

At some point, I became aware that this was exactly the kind of place you choose for these transitions — not because it’s extraordinarily special, but because it is reliable in the right ways. The view will impress. The food will deliver. The atmosphere will allow you to sit with what’s happening and share the enjoyment.

Restaurants, like people, rarely know the role they play in these moments. They simply provide the setting.

That evening, at Figo, it felt as though everything aligned just right. The food, the view, the very special company — a perfectly appropriate memory to sustain us through the times when absence seems overpowering. It wasn’t just a good meal. It was the right place for that moment — easy, comfortable, and special without making a big show of it.

kovecollection.co.za/figo