Mun Manal runs his restaurant with a level of precision and order that would impress even the most seasoned operators in the industry. It would be easy to argue that the Jordan-born restaurateur takes his job a tad too seriously, with mandatory breathalyser tests and a strict no-romance policy, but consult any chef worth their salt and they will nod approvingly. Kitchens, after all, rely on clear hierarchy and structure to function well, a philosophy formalised long ago in the Brigade de Cuisine.
But step inside Ukkō (pronounced Uh-Ko), Manal’s Mediterranean/Asian fusion establishment in Bryanston, and that discipline reveals itself quietly in the syncopated staff movements and a sense that everything is precisely where it should be. The dining room feels bright and airy, spilling out towards the car park and allowing a gentle breeze to ease the dry Johannesburg heat. Woven lampshades, macrame dividers and a soothing colour scheme subtly reference the restaurant’s Finnish origin story.
The name itself comes from Ukkonen, the god of thunder, sky, weather and crops and is a nod to ancient rituals of gathering, where families came together over food and drink in the hope of a good harvest. At Ukkō, the idea of abundance feels less mythological and more comfortably assured.
The restaurant describes itself as a Mediterranean tapas, sushi and mixology bar, with a menu that plays confidently across both traditions. Manal refers to the approach as “MediterrAsian”, a hybrid born of intuition and sharpened by more than two decades of experience in the hospitality industry.
“The South African market doesn’t like to hop,” he explains over a double espresso. “They like to stay in one place and eat. So, you try to cater for everybody without having an extensive menu, [which can] operationally become complicated and affect the quality and the freshness of food. We try to keep our menu limited, but we have a wider offering.”
Lunch begins with sushi and I invite my father to join me, someone whose curiosity for flavour has always made him a reliable barometer for balance and honest feedback. Ukkō boasts a fully functioning external kitchen complete with several specialised appliances, all geared towards delivering the freshest, highest-quality dishes. Their sushi menu is a testament to this, allowing guests to fluidly explore both classic options and their more experimental signature dishes. When their Caribbean Roll and Dynamite options appear before us, the execution is as impeccable as the flavour.
Both deliver more heat than expected, thanks to spicy salmon and jalapeño, but it’s the Dynamite Roll that lingers, the crunch of tempura prawn cutting cleanly through the richness of the salmon.
Finding balance in both the flavours and the kitchen depends on rigour behind the scenes. Meat and fish are prepared in-house, vacuum-sealed and stored under strict temperature controls. Later, as Manal walks me through the kitchen, his grasp of operational detail is impressive. Knowledge, he admits, that has been hard-won.
“I had failures but I think surviving these failures has made me strong and made me believe that I can always do it again and again,” he explains. “Why be good when you can be great?”
That mindset permeates the room. As we move on, nearby tables fill steadily, business lunches unfolding alongside families and old friends settling in for long, unhurried meals despite a Tuesday afternoon lull. Ukkō feels lived-in, not precious.
The tapas offering leans international without losing restraint. A camembert wrapped in crisp phyllo pastry arrives first. Molten, light and finished with citrus honey that adds sweetness without excess. Chicken gyoza (dumplings) follow, their fiery sauce delivering a clean, assertive heat. The camembert, however, proves the crowd favourite, with my father happily hogging the plate.
But the proverbial cherry on top is, undoubtedly, the glorious Basque cheesecake. Creamy, delicately aerated and capped with a burnished top, the filling isn’t overly rich, and a sprinkle of roasted white chocolate adds depth. It tastes like something that took time to get right.
For Manal, that patience is essential. “This business isn’t an instant return,” he explains, carefully downplaying the fact that Ukkō launched during the pandemic, when many restaurants didn’t survive. “It’s slow, you build a reputation. We’re not a five-star restaurant but we do pay attention to the little things that matter most. How we treat our customers, how they’re meant to feel when they arrive, and attention to detail.”
Since its launch in 2021, Ukkō has become a Bryanston favourite, and Manal is already looking ahead. Set to open in April, his next venture will occupy more than 780m² at Sandton Gate in Hyde Park. The brief: a New York-style energy, elegant but buzzy, anchored by an 11-metre bar and bespoke mixology.
As I sip a chilled pistachio margarita, the roasted pistachio-infused tequila lending a refreshing nutty edge, it’s clear that standing still is not part of Manal’s philosophy. “We want to be different,” he says. “In service, in attention, in how we conduct our business.”
It’s clear that Ukkō’s success lies not in novelty but in consistency (and creating the perfect cheesecake, obviously). In a city that often chases the new, Manal’s focus on discipline, balance and good service feels almost radical and, judging by the full dining room, deeply welcome.
