Beyond fine dining: Heirloom’s fresh take on Cape Town cuisine

Where once there was a lengthy set menu, today’s offering is tighter, smarter and more approachable

Heirloom restaurant interior
Heirloom restaurant interior (Supplied)

Tucked between the vibrant V&A Waterfront and the tranquil yacht marina lies the Cape Grace Hotel — a recently revamped, five-star landmark that exudes understated elegance through rich woods, marble finishes and curated local artworks. At its heart is Heirloom, the hotel’s signature restaurant, which has been nominated among the best new restaurants in Africa by the World Culinary Awards.

Once a traditional fine dining destination, Heirloom has shed the formality in favour of premium casual dining. The experience is now more relaxed with less ceremony, and the menu designed for ease, quality and clarity.

Where once there was a lengthy set menu, today’s offering is tighter, smarter and more approachable — ideal for guests who’ve just arrived in Cape Town and may be jet-lagged, yet still craving something high quality. At the same time, those wanting a longer, more leisurely meal will find multi-course options with regularly changing dishes to explore.

Heirloom reopened in March last year, taking over from the more structured Signal Restaurant. In reimagining the concept, the team drew on the personal histories of its chefs — pooling treasured family recipes, incorporating Cape Malay flavours, and threading in stories of the Cape’s culinary heritage. The goal: to create a menu that speaks of place and belonging.

As the Cape Grace’s only restaurant, Heirloom is where guests gather for breakfast, lunch and dinner. With its views of the marina and mountains, teal chairs, fresh white linens and a central marble-and-wood bar, the space is flooded with natural light — elegant but never intimidating.

Guests often spend their days exploring the city or heading to nearby wine farms, so evenings offer a range of in-house options that are not overly complicated. Other dining experiences for guests and day visitors include afternoon tea, which has made a comeback, with cakes, scones and savouries such as coronation chicken and samoosas. Themed events — from floral arranging to perfume blending — have made these teas especially popular for birthdays, family gatherings and special occasions.

Over a recent lunch, we had perfectly grilled baby kingklip and seared Norwegian salmon — super tasty and served alongside a roasted butternut and quinoa salad and a velvety butternut-and-burnt orange soup. The crème brûlée was top tier — silky and satisfying. And part of the delight was simply watching the harbour life unfold outside the window.

The Heirloom restaurant overlooks the tranquil yacht marina.
The Heirloom restaurant overlooks the tranquil yacht marina. (Supplied)

True to its international clientele, the menu at Heirloom is unusually detailed in its explanations — with clear indicators for allergens or preferences like gluten, celery, sesame and sulphur dioxide. It’s all part of a focus on care and accessibility and travellers who are mindful of what they are eating.

The restaurant has also introduced smart, tailored offerings — including a three-course business lunch, designed for speed and value. Its proximity to corporate offices, banks and asset managers who value discretion and good service make it a peaceful enclave for lunches and meetings.

Cape Grace’s long-standing staff are attentive without being intrusive and offer a local warmth in how they interact.

(Supplied)

And Heirloom isn’t the only draw. The hotel library offers a quiet retreat with books, tea and cake by day and transforms into a cosy cocktail lounge in the evenings. Meanwhile, Bascule Bar — an intimate, basement-level whisky and cocktail venue — remains a Cape Town favourite. With more than 500 whiskies, it’s one of the largest collections in the southern hemisphere, complemented by bold African artworks and a relaxed, upscale vibe.

Food and beverage director Bryan Pietersen, who’s been in international hospitality for years explains the thinking behind the updated approach. “A long menu can be intimidating. People default to what they know. With a shorter, evolving menu, guests are more likely to try new things — and chefs stay engaged creatively. If something doesn’t work, we change it. We keep moving.”

Having worked with global hotel groups and owned a cocktail bar in London, he sees the strength of the food and beverage offerings at the hotel not in scale but precision.

“We don’t have six restaurants. We have Heirloom — so it has to be exceptional. Service has to be impeccable. That’s what guests remember.”

Guests also enjoy curated events. Heirloom is currently partnering with Atlas Swift Wines, featuring wine-pairing dinners this July and August. The spotlight is primarily on its Chardonnays sourced from five distinct regions, each with its own micro-climate: Cederberg, Cape South Coast, Franschhoek, Wellington, and Robertson (home to South Africa’s first Chardonnay plantings).

Atlas Swift is a family-run wine estate founded by Martin and Welma Smith who are both steeped in the worlds of wine- making, and based in Franschhoek. Beyond the wines themselves, the labels are a visual treat - illustrated by a locally based Ukranian artist, adding another layer of artistry to the experience.

Guests can look forward to a refined five-course menu that includes house-made sourdough with whipped black ash Belnori and onion marmalade, Saldana Bay oysters, free range quail, and gin-cured tuna - each course paired with Atlas Swift wines. The dinner is priced at R1395 a person.