Jan’s lost and found

Driving into the landmark Sun City resort, a buzz at The Palace Hotel signals a rejuvenation in progress. From a welcome befitting a 5-star luxury hotel — with valet and porter services — to the enveloping views of the lush Pilanesberg greenery, the resort’s exotic gardens, and the spacious luxury suites, The Palace hasn’t lost its charm. And the addition of the chic Royal Spa elevates it into the contemporary.

The masterstroke, however, is the new partnership with Michelin-starred chef Jan Hendrik van der Westhuizen, who has taken over the food and beverage offering at The Palace. This began with the recent launch of the breakfast service at The Palace Hotel’s Crystal Court.

“We have been in the process of restoring The Palace to its former glory over the last couple of years since Covid-19. In a way, Covid was really good for the re-establishment of Sun City,” says general manager Brett Hoppé.  “We aim to restore the Crystal Court dining area while incorporating modern elements. This involves updating the architecture, enhancing the landscaping, and revitalising the interior design to create a harmonious blend of historical charm and contemporary style, ensuring that the space feels timeless and inviting.”

He adds, “We owe much of our success to the story of The Palace as a place of myths and wonder, of luxury and royal pampering. We now embark on a new gourmet journey that takes dining at The Palace from a good food experience to one that is truly exceptional.”

Working with the lore of The Palace of the Lost City (the story of an African kingdom once lost to the jungle surrounding it), Van der Westhuizen has come up with the idea of “The Lost Ingredients”, focussing on and celebrating SA’s forgotten indigenous and traditional ingredients.

“What we do with food is we tell stories. Not only new stories; we also like to tell old stories with a new beginning,” Van der Westhuizen says. “My executive group chef Andrea Pick and I started researching last year, looking at ingredients in and around SA that are not necessarily lost on your plate — you might see them every day in different forms — but with which we have lost a connection. We’re remembering their history, quality, and nutritional value. We came up with a massive list, which is exciting.”

The list comprises, among others, the leafy greens collectively known as morogo or imifino that include amaranth (thepe in Setswana, imbuya in isiZulu, varkbossie in Afrikaans); blackjack; spider flower (lerotho or oorpeultjie); and okra leaves (thelele or wilde jute). There are also beans such as ditloo (jugo beans or bambara ground nut) and dinawa (cow peas), as well as regional millets, which include foxtail and pearl millet.

These ingredients have long been advocated for by nutritionist and African food researcher Mpho Tshukudu in her book Eat Ting (co-written with food anthropologist Anna Trapido) and chef and food activist Mokgadi Itsweng for their nutritional value and sustainability. Some of grow in the wild and are drought-resistant. Others help heal the soil.

“Growing indigenous ingredients helps bring life back to the soil. Leafy greens like amaranth, mung beans, and bambara nuts, for example, add nitrogen and phosphorus to the soil,” Itsweng has said.

There’s a tangible shift in the culinary scene towards celebrating heritage foods and Van der Westhuizen’s endorsement of these traditional and indigenous ingredients is a win for their gradual exposure and renaissance. For the farming community of the North West, this could also mean more jobs.

Van der Westhuizen has a knack for innovating with heritage ingredients — as he has demonstrated to great acclaim at Restaurant Jan in Nice, France, and Restaurant Klein Jan in Tswalu in the Kalahari. He and his team at The Palace are working with 12 such “lost” ingredients. Each season will focus on one ingredient that will influence the interior decoration of the Crystal Court, the installations, the menu, the tasting menu, and the training of the chefs, creating a full-circle ecosystem. 

First up is the heirloom corn that arrived in Africa in the 16th century and is now the country’s staple crop. At the launch of the Crystal Court breakfast menu, guests were treated to over 20 dishes using heirloom corn and basic mealie meal, ranging from polenta to tarts and various versions of popcorn and ice cream. The select menu featured standout dishes such as corn and amaranth blini with citrus and smoked trout, strained amasi, and caviar; and Lost City mealie pap with 12-hour lamb, morogo, and fresh truffle.

Over the next 18 months, Van der Westhuizen will also introduce curated guest experiences and new seasonal menus at Tusk Bar, the Pool Deck, and in-room dining. This delightful disruption is setting a new benchmark for Sun City hospitality — one that celebrates SA culture in masterful style.