Of food, gathering and beckoning fire

Walking into Vuur, nestled at the foothills of the Simonsberg mountain just outside Stellenbosch, you’d never guess it’s a steakhouse — let alone one that ranks among the world’s top 101.

Rustic, charming and unassuming, the space feels more like an intimate countryside farmhouse than a fine-dining destination. Sunlight spills in, illuminating the warm, earthy interior. On one side, a small but dedicated open-fire cooking area, what locals call a braai, hints at the heart of the experience. Vuur sits on Remhoogte, a family-owned wine estate known for its vineyards and tranquil views.

The restaurant, Vuur Goose Island, opened just over a year-and-a half ago adjacent to a converted stable — also a dining area — and it has already earned a spot on the global top 101 steakhouse list for the second year in a row. Up one place from last year, it currently holds position 87, a notable achievement considering the list is dominated by establishments in Argentina, Spain and the US. The only other SA spot to feature is The Blockman in Parkhurst, Johannesburg, debuting at number 97. 

A visit to Vuur Goose Island beings with a drink on the patio of the main house. Clad in a heavy leather apron — a necessity when working so closely with fire — chef Shaun Scrooby gathers the day’s guests and leads them down to the restaurant. Along the way, zebra, wildebeest and nyala might wander into view. There is only one rule, says Scrooby: don’t mess with the wildebeest.  

The name Vuur — Afrikaans word for “fire”— is more than just branding. It defines the ethos of the kitchen. Scrooby cooks exclusively over fire, using six different types of wood, each chosen for the unique flavour it imparts. The result is a seasonal, seven-course menu that showcases the best of local produce, game and fish. All meat is dry-aged, typically between 90 and 150 days. 

The restaurant seats only 12 guests per sitting. On a midweek visit, diners included a couple from the UK and another from Kenya. The adjacent space can be reserved for private groups. 

Scrooby is informal and engaging, making you feel like you’ve been invited into his personal kitchen. He shares the stories and inspiration behind each dish with ease. Guests can wander around, most seem content to stay at the table, wine in hand, captivated by the food and conversation. There’s just one sitting per day — understandably so, as lunch can stretch into the later afternoon, sometimes even early evening. 

There was no grand plan behind Vuur. Scrooby, a self-taught chef with a background in safari lodge hospitality, had grown tired of being away from home for long stretches. He knew the Boustred family, owners of Remhoogte, from guiding one of them on safari, and saw potential in an old stable on the property. They converted it into a restaurant with their own hands, later adding the adjacent dining area. 

Lunch starts with a pan of warm, bone marrow sourdough served with black garlic butter and apricot jam — a nostalgic nod to mosbolletjies, yet more delicate. Most dishes are prepared in full view of the guests, though the bread arrives ready and inviting. 

No braai is complete without a toebroodjie (or a braaibroodjie), and here it’s reinvented: grilled leek bread layered with kudu tartare, cured egg yolk cream, and some finely grated cheese. “There’s no nice way to eat this,” says Scrooby. “Use your hands”. It’s delicious. 

Next is a thick cut of beef served simply with salt — proof that minimalism can be best. A crips-topped, flavourful fish (dry-aged yellowtail hung for nine days), then a tart lemon inspired palate cleanser. The main meal is an array of meats — today it’s Wagyu chuck, Wagyu rump (aged for about six to eight weeks) and 102 day-aged sirloin. The portions are sliced thin and served alongside just-cook vegetables. 

Dessert is Basque-style cheesecake, inspired by San Sebastian in Spain and made with cream cheese and mascarpone and baked in the braai. It’s paired with dulce de leche, slowly simmered for hours until it turns a deep caramel, and served with burnt hay ice cream — yes, hay. They wash it, dry it, burn it, infuse the cream and milk, and churn it into an elegant treat. It’s made and served by Malaika, who’s also prepared the bread and supports Scrooby during the day. 

Scrooby, who “loves to eat”, grew up with grandparents who were passionate cooks, and his grandmother, he says, was a “fantastic chef.” Married to a Spaniard, he travels to Spain frequently and tastes widely and experiments at home. Inspired by series like Chef’s Table, he thought, “I can do that.” 

The restaurant sits beside a dam, with an outdoor patio where parts of the meal can be served. The setting is intimate, authentic and rooted in a deep respect for open-fire cooking. 

Vuur Goose Island is, at heart, a chef’s table experience. Strangers become lunch companions, stories are exchanged over glasses of wine from the estate’s Free to Be label, and the mood is one of warm camaraderie. 

The menu adapts to dietary preferences and seasonal ingredients. Scrooby sources from quality suppliers but lets the produce and meat guide the dishes. “We don’t chase specific cuts,” he ways. “We chase the best cuts”. 

Vuurrecently earned its first star from Eat Out. For South Africans who love a good braai, this is something else entirely: a long, luxurious journey through food and flame. Yes, the meat is exceptional, but the experience is more than that. It’s about time, place, people and fire — an afternoon of storytelling, feasting and a proper kuier in the best South African tradition.